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1979 Pace Arrow Joe 8-29-02  
I'm having a time trying to find out if my starter is bad as my battery keeps going dead. It's only a one year old battery. The starter turns the motor over easly when it's been charged but I'm wondering if anyone can help me trouble shoot the problem. It seems as though there may be a drain on the battery... but I have no idea how to find it... Thanks
Re: 1979 Pace Arrow virginia 3-20-17  
Can someone tell me motor is in a standard pace arrow 1979, and what vehicles would be compatible with this motor? or where I can decode the vin?
Re: 1979 Pace Arrow tammy 1-30-03  
I have the same problem with my 79 Pace Arrow. I could understand it if I were using it without hookups, but it actually seems to drain the battery WORSE when we are using hookups! I've been told that I need to install a one-way diode to keep the battery from draining. Haven't tried it yet, though. Don't know where to start.
Re: 1979 Pace Arrow walt 2-27-03  
There is a celenoid on the left hand side of the engine on fire wall, some time this shorts out, it go's direct to starter, I have to move wires around some time when it won't start.have a question for you! do you know where to get siding, I have electrolices which has caused some holes in siding, is there a way to repair ?
Re: 1979 Pace Arrow walt 2-27-03  
I have an on, off, lever on the positive side of both batterys, that seems to prolong there life. do you know where to get siding replaced or repaired, have small holes through out siding caused by electrolices, any idea's
Re: 1979 Pace Arrow Electrolysis Xpltivdletd 9-28-03  
You'll need a few spools of stranded wire, with the insulation-color they use for *ground* on your vehicle. And you either need to know your way around vehicle-wiring or you need the help of someone who does--whom you can trust and afford.

I have the same problem with my project-vehicle--a Grumman step-van. The skin's thicker so I just have pitting, not holes--except where the brackets to my rear bumper show 22 years of electrolysis-rot! But the cure is to run copper from the "ground" fastener of each electrical device on that aluminum skin--to some point on the steel frame, instead of just to some other point on the aluminum. And it can make quite a mess if it's done in too big a hurry or if the choices where to route a wire are poor ones. I wish you success. RKBA! Regards, all.
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