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1989 silver eagle anita cosby 9-28-07
I JUST PURCHACED A 1989 EAGLE. WE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH IT OVER HEATING, WE HAVE CHANGED THE THURMASTATS. HAVE POWER WASHED THE RADIATOR. STILL OVER HEATING. TEMP WILL RISE TO 230 AND WHEN WE TURN THE HEAT ON IT WILL GO BACK DOWN TO 200. WE CAN DRIVE ABOUT 15 MILES BEFORE THIS HAPPENS. IF YOU ARE SITTING STILL IT DOSEN'T DO IT.( ONLY WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING)IF WE DON'T CATCH IT TIME IT WILL BLOW 2 TO 3 GALS OF WATER OUT. I AM TO MY WITTS END ALREADY! COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ON THIS?
It would help to know what engine trans combination you have. Rule of thumb for diagnosing cooling problems on busses that works on every thing pretty much. If the lower or out let hose from the rad is hot the rad is bad and should be replaced. If the outlet hose is cool there is a restriction or flow problem in the system. Detroit 2 strokes are notorious for having the water pump impeller come loose from the drive/suport shaft. Have seen hoses colapsed inside that look ok out side, debries in the rad plugging the top. Thats why most rads are now cross flow. If it is blowing coolant out it is badly over heated and why didn't the auto shut downs work? Probably disconected by previous owner because of this problem. My bet would be it needs a new rad. It probably has never been changed since new and my experiance with most bus companies is that they will not change a rad without it haveing a hole in it no matter how much the drivers complained. Lots of our busses developed a bad core leak in misterious circumstances. Most bus rads of that era were dissasemble able and inspectable. Usualy you can pull the most conveniant hose and see the core to tell if its the problem. Other comon things include cracked head putting exsaust into cooling system and bad or not locking up transmision torque converter. Does the rpm change as you roll on and off the throttle at highway speed? If it dropps to idle the converter has a problem. This will badly over stress the cooling system. Good luck.
THIS IS A 6V92 DETROIT ON THIS 1987 EAGLE.YES THE AUTO SHUT DOWN SEEMS TO WORK. BUT WE TRY TO GET IT SHUT DOWN BEFORE THEN.WHAT ARE THE PRICE RANGES FOR RADIATORS? DO I HAVE TO BUY NEW OR IS THERE A PLACE TO BUY REBUILT? THIS IS ALL NEW TO ME AND I APPRCIATE ALL THE HELP I CAN GET!
THANKS
ANITA
I have never bought a rad for an eagle. The Prices for similar to fit Prevost was running 1500 to 1800 localy reusing the original tanks (called a recore) plus install. The rad would need to go to a shop that works on heavy truck cooling systems and they will most likly have to order a core based on measurments. Replacing the rad is an exspensive experement. Make sure it needs doing before doing it. One posiblity I forgot to mention is fan clutches. The only Eagle I worked on was older than yours and not equiped with one. If they go bad it would explain your problems also. Virtually all fan clutches have provision to lock them on. The method varries by type and manufacturer, but this is an easy way to diagnose this problem.
The best way to diagnose your problem is to discover where the heat is and where it isn't. Since you say turning on the coach heat brings the temp down right away I am inclined to think you have a major problem with your radiator.
Invest in an infrared laser thermometer. It will allow you to check temps all over the engine compartment without you having to get too close to anything.
You should have a minimum of 20 degrees in temperature differential between the top and bottom of the radiator. If you don't have at least that much your radiator is not up to the task. Which will require a some major work. Plan on a minimum of $2K unless you are up to taking the radiator out yourself. Be careful because it is a very heavy beast.
As Bubba indicated, there are many things to check for overheating but my guess would be a radiator problem.
Shop around and ask your local bus companines, school districts, or trucking firms where they go to have their radiator work done. A good industrial radiator shop will have the ability to flow test, rod out, and clean your radiator to the point you may not need a new core. But IHMO, since it is such a PIA to R&R, I would spend the extra $$$ to have a new core put in. Then you know if you are still overheating the radiator can't be the culprit.