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I was given a 1977 Pace Arrow with a 440 in it. The vehicle hadn't been started in 10 years. I installed new batteries, squirted a little marvel in each cylinder and to my suprise it fired up like it had been started the day before. I let the engine sit and idle for about 35 minutes and it purred like a kitten. I went back to the house got the wife to take me back to pick the RV up. It started great, I put it in gear, drove around the block and it started acting like it was running out of gas, and finally died. I put 10 gallons in it, went to fire it back up and it wouldnt start. The carb is getting gas, but as I checked into the problem deeper, I learned it had quit firing. No fire from the coil or at the plugs...Any suggestions??
I forgot to add that a volt/ohm meter shows 10.99 volts to the + side of the coil with the ignition switch in the run position, but no fire from the coil
I would use a test probe with the 12volt bulb.Put the groung clip on a good ground and place the tip on the other side on the coil.See if light flashes when cranking the engine.If it flashes the module is working.If it stays on all the time the module is not turning on and off.If there is no light the coil is open circuit. Some of the older mopars used a ballast resister in the coil circuit not sure what year the stoped using them.If the resister opens there is no spark. Good Luck Mike
I have a 1979 dodge rv that did about same thing I started it up then pulled it out in driveway and after about 10 minutes it just quit running.I went today to get dist. cap. rotor button and wires. I also bought a new Ballast res. and cam home put new ballast rest. on and rv fired right up. After about 10 mins. I shut it off and now it won't start again.So I'm going back to get another ballast rest. And see if it will start back up again. If so and it quits again does anyone have any input as to what would be causing the problem. I also replaced the coil as the 1st thing I tried. Thanks Matt
Well, I wanted to come back and let you all know what I did to remedy the ignition problem I had with my 440. After just a bit of research, I found a company who manufactures distributors that utilize GM HEI components. In other words, my new distributor is Chrysler 440 on the bottom, and GM HEI on the top. It is a very simple 1 wire hook up, and in the event of a breakdown, all parts are readily available at most part stores across the US! Their URL is http://www.ignitionplus.net/products.html These distributors are available for non computer controlled engines (found in older RV's like mine) and are availabe for Chevy (of course) small and big block Fords, Small and big block Mopars.
The distributor cost a measly $100.00 complete w/ new cap, rotor, HEI module and coil. I also had to purchase some new plug wires which cost another $60.00 and I had to take the time to pull the spark plugs and open the gap up to.045
GM HEI's are notorious for burning holes in the rotor button, so after my new ignition system arrived, and I had it up and running I went to the local parts store and bought a spare dist. cap, rotor and module and threw in my tool box just for piece of mind. The only other thing that can possibly go wrong with this system is the coil, and they're not prone to failure, but are readily available also!
This entire deal, complete with spares cost less than $200.00 and made the old Pace Arrow much cleaner under the dog house!
The 5 pin connector to the module will give you a headache-check it-clean but don't spread the female side--i had 2 different dodge MH's and they were my biggest problems--as for the resistor some are 2 pin some are 4 don't get the 4 pin backwards--one side controlls the field voltage to the alternator.
rich in va