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I just bought a 26ft Lazy Daze/with a 460 ford motor with 30,000 miles. The original fan clutch failed and I replaced it with a Ford factory replacement Fan Clutch. I now am experiencing a overheating problem. I replaced the 195 thermostat with a 185 flushed the cooling system. It still overheats at highway speed 55-60 MPH. At slow intown driving it is OK. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
I just bought a 26ft Lazy Daze/with a 460 ford motor with 30,000 miles. The original fan clutch failed and I replaced it with a Ford factory replacement Fan Clutch. I now am experiencing a overheating problem. I replaced the 195 thermostat with a 185 flushed the cooling system. It still overheats at highway speed 55-60 MPH. At slow intown driving it is OK. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Is your cooling OK below highway speed, that is, you could drive it all day at 45 MPH with no problems? I'd first check the distributor advances for proper operation. Since you didn't indicate engine operating problems, then the fuel system must be OK. That leaves an airflow problem through the radiator. First, if the vehicle has had a "flex fan" installed, get rid of it, and put an original in. Second, Ford sold you a thermal fan clutch, just as was in there originally. These work fine in the original Ford bodies. However, RVs are built like barges, just think of air as "thin water", you've seen pictures, if not the real thing, of a barge under way. Look at that bow wave that's being pushed along in front of it! Consider what a wall of air your RV is pushing along in front of it! That's the problem. This wall of air lessens the "ram air" airflow through the radiator. In order to overcome this lessened airflow, you need a fan to pull it in through the radiator. However, "catch 22", the thermal fan clutch won't re-engage the fan unless it has 210-220 degree air hitting the bi-metal coiled spring on the front of it. To check this out, access the front of the fan clutch, disengage the outer end of the spring, turn the end in the direction that the spring is wound, and re-engage it in the first available notch--some clutches have two, 180 degrees apart--. This changes the thermal clutch into a fluid clutch that drives the fan at all times, but allows slippage to take place on engine acceleration. You'll hear the fan moving air, but your engine should,( if every thing else is OK), run just off the thermostat opening. I've done this to my last two tow vehicles, (F 250's w/460's), and even in Death Valley in August, they cooled just fine.
How do you know the clutch failed to begin with? I replaced my clutch because I was running 230 degrees, turns out there was no spring on my clutch. Problem stayed the same with new clutch. Replaced temp qauge and probe, changed radiator hoses, 185 thermostat, then 195 degree thermostat, no thermostat, flushed radiator and tranny cooler, bypassed tranny cooler, checked timing, and spark advance, EGR valve, changed plugs and distributer, checked exhaust for debris and or obstruction, installed electrical fans. Turns out that the clutch I bought new was a %$@%#^%, &^$&^%, (*&(, no good. Replaced it AGAIN, and I am between 210-220 degrees at any speed. 38 foot Mallard with carburated ford 460.
Check the fan clutch again, before you go crazy with parts!!!
I have a problem with my 1990 Ford E-350 engine 460 CI. It was running fine for the summer months then we parked for winter we serviced it when we used it last summer but it was running hotter then normal now it runs that way all the time. I changed the temp sending unit, thermostat, had the system flushed out, I even changed the gauge cluster. I don't know what to do next your help would be greatly appreciated and welcome. One final thing I also brought it to a garage they told me that it wasn,t overheating. Help please and Thank You