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I have a class C which is a Ford with a 460.cu. The rear left side exhaust manifold bolt has broke due to the header warping and shearing the bolt off.
I understand that this is a common problem with these engines. They claim quality headers will fix it.
PROBLEM: Taking them off. Very tight compartment with the possiblity of breaking more studs when removing.
Does any one have experience regarding the best way to remove these manifolds with out breaking studs?
All claim that if certain studs break, the heads will have to come off so as to remove the broken studs in the heads.... Scary Stuff.
All and any imput will be of great help to me. Thanks.
First, do the drilling with a short left handed drill bit. It will naturally put reversing torque on the stud as it drills out the "Ease-out" hole. The stud may back out during or at the end of the drilling operation. Then use the Ease-out if necessary. Replace the studs with high quality 400M stainless steel allen head bolts and heavy stainless washers, they don't break!
I have put new heads on f-350 460. we are having problems with exhaust leak. i understand this is a common problem with the big block. does anyone know how to fix this for good??
I have a 1988 allegro class a motorhome and have exhaust manifold leaks. the ford 460 is a real pain.i broke most of the bolts to remove the manifolds and had no luck drilling them out. i am in the process of replacing the heads and going with headers instead of manifolds.good luck with this problem.the only company i have found for headers is headman headers part#89710 at a cost of 343.99
I mean a short drill bit. If you have little clearance you need a short drill bit. You know, most are about 5" -6".
All you need is maybe a 3" bit. Just cut or break one in half. I have done this before myself.
Yes, there are better lubricants. Go to a big hardware store and look. Or call machine shops, they should know.
My experience with drilling out heads
is it sucks !! Even after you drill a hole you still have to rethread. Unless you get lucky and drill exactly in the middle of the bolt and are able to back out what is left of the bolt.
They have what are called, "easy outs,"
You drill a hole then screw in the easy out, it has reverse threads so it grabs the bolt and supposedly the bolt backs out. But header bolts are tough.
I would try and get all bolts out, get new bolts, install copper gaskets, torque the bolts down tight and never plan on changing gaskets again. My copper gaskets are 4 years old and I have had no problems. When I used the cheap ones I had to replace them twice a year. I know a guy that uses 2 sets of the cheap ones, he doubles them up. He still has to replace them. Try and find metal ones.
One of the exhuast bolts broke on my Dodge 440 when taking off the headers to put on new gaskets. I have some room so I was able to drill it out without removing the head. I have seen drills with flexible shafts, this would be a good tool to have, maybe you can rent one.
Spray plenty of lubricant on bolts, even after loosening studs continue to lube. Try tapping on stud with hammer.
A previous owner put headers on my 440.
I don't like headers, they always blow gaskets. I used copper gaskets. They cost about $40, but hold up better than the cheap ones. I think all headers warp, the metal is too thin.
You need one of those small, compact
compressed air drills. You could also cut a drill bit in half. You should be able to drill out the stud with this.
I have the same touble divers side is there a donut in there leaking or what this on a 460 ford motor home 1995 and it a bit-- to fix right????thank you JIM P
I have 1972 buick skylark 350 heads 401 block original everything 5 years ago i was racing down the highway at 110 botomed out because there was a big dip i came home noticed the head of the bolt broke off on the driver side front so i said ah the heck with its not leaking so now its leaking and i bought headers to put on it so i pull off the exhaust i was hoping there was some stud there nope it broke off before flush a liitle i drilled it through and oiled the other side yoused an ease out and fuk it broke now its almost imposible to get it out what do i do..............
Ford E350 with 460, broken exhaust bolt on rear of engine. Depending on what side, I have loosened the motor mount on that side of the engine, and lifted it slightly to get a 90 degree drill with a 3" drill bit to drill a hole in the bolt and using a easy out to remove it. Use plenty of penetrating oil before you attempt to remove it. Kryoil is a good brand and does a excellent job. I re-assemble the manifold without a gasket, as per Ford, but use Copper High Heat silicone on the mating surfaces and had good luck with it. Used it on Ford and GM big block engines with no more exhaust problems.
My Class A 30' Airstreem blow an 460 engine after having a broken exhast manifold right rear bolt? replaced engine now new engine has same right rear bolt broken what should I do ??
I own a 94 pacearrow 33' with a ford 460 engine with at least 1 broken exhaust manifold bolt. I have been told heat is the cause of this problem and that headers will keep it from breaking more and that I'll get better gas mileage, is this true? I have used few methods of removing broken bolts in my day but this is new to me. What methods do you suggest trying, first to last please and is it best to try to loosen bolts on a hot or cold engine?
Hi 1987/8 ford e350 v8 7.5 litre petrol & gas leisurecraft motorhome and have 3 exhaust manifold studs sheared off giving small leak which is ok when running hot. There are 2 on right rear and one left rear. Any ideas how to remove and/or can I just leave them as is. I have heard of drilling then pouring liquid nitrogen down and then tapping bolt which disintegrates due to cold - fact or fantasy - by the way i am in UK
I have a 1987 Winnebago with a Ford 460 engine that sounds like the exhaust manifold is leaking. It is very loud. Should I try to do an amateur job first or take it to a professional?
I have a F250 with a 460, 7.5L and it has an exhaust leak that I am working on trying to fix. The first bolt on the drivers side front is missing. I don't show that it's broke in the head but rather just missing. Does anyone know what size I would need and what the Tourque Foot pounds I need to set it at when I am able to finally get this replaced?
Hi there - I'm from UK but spend around 3 months every year cruising round US and Canada in a Ford E350 7.5 litre V-8 23 ft. motorhome. After this year's trip (2011), it is parked up near Halifax, Nova Scotia ready to set off towards British Columbia next May 2012. Ever since I first had it (2009 at 33000 miles) there was a slight exhaust noise which disappeared about a minute. I now know that this was the rear end stud (RH passenger side) losing its head. At the end of this year the noise got worse - due to the next stud breaking, and so next May I have to get something done. Reading the posts on various websites it seems that this is a common problem on these engines when heavily loaded - the motorhome has a gross weight around 3.5 - 4 tons.
There is now a gap of around 0.5 mm at the end of the manifold. Will this mean a new RH manifold ? Or both? Can this be done without too much trouble? Is there a better way of doing it than pure replacement?
Better still, is there a knowledgeable and sympathetic workshop near Halifax who would like to do it?! Colin