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After being on the road for at least an hour on expressway,when i get off and stop at a light,it stalls,doesnt idle right after running for awhile,but then after restarting i have to keep the gas on to keep it from stalling again,cleaned and lubed carb,what else could cause this?
it idles fine,until its been driven for over 30 minutes..thansk
It is possible that the EGR vacuum vent valve(solenoid) isn't opening and bleeding the vacuum out of the EGR line. This would cause the EGR valve to remain partially open, causing the symptons you mention. You might try this, disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve and plug the hose. Now, take the rig for a spin and see if anything changes, (Don't lay into the throttle to hard, your engine may ping).
Vince,
Our '83 Class C with a 460 would lay down like that after running hard, usually then shut down for awhile and run hard again. Like summer driving with a/c on towing the car. Changing the coil corrected it in ours. The DuraSpark module, in the engine compartment mounted to the driver side fender liner, is another failure spot. I carry a spare. The one we're running isn't original but I don't know how old it is. Some RVers extend the wiring to the module and mount it inside the cab to keep it a little cooler, but I haven't done that. Distributor has a pickup coil that you have to pull the dist out and the gear off to change. Hardly a roadside job, but the one I had fail in a TBird about that age caused it to miss hard, like a jerk, not just lay down like the 460 did.
Let us know what you find!
God Bless, jd
That happened to me, too. When we bought the coach, EGR control was capped off with tape and hose removed and plugged. Engine pinged. I don't know if it was the best fix, but I found a ported vacuum source unused in the throttle plate area and went direct to the EGR valve. That's how it's running now. Idles OK and doesn't ping. Is there need to do anything else?
God Bless, jd
That was the way the early EGR valves worked. Later on "hold offs" were added. The first design had a coolant temp activated vacuum hold off---kept the EGR off line until the engine warmed up. Next was added an RPM driven vacuum solenoid valve so that even when the engine was warm enough, no vacuum was supplied to the EGR until the engine hit around 1200-1500 RPM. When the engine dropped below that, the solenoid valve would close and the vacuum vent valve---another solenoid valve---would open to dump the vacuum in the line to the EGR and allow it to close. In a Ford, these two valves are mounted next to one another.
I have a 1999 Ford Taurus. I'm getting a SES light. I took the car to Autozone. Their computer said P0401 insuffiecient flow EGR valve. I replaced the valve and had the error code scanned and cleared by Autozone. After 2hrs. of driving the SES light reappeared. I'm NOT experiencing any hesitation, knocking, pinging, or rough Idle. Could my EVP sensor or solenoid be bad.
Thanks, Sam, for the explanation. The symptoms I had match the scenario where the RPM-sensitive feature let the EGR open, and quit applying vacuum to it when RPM dropped. My problem was exactly that the vacuum remaining after the RPM sensor closed it off was not bled down. I sat there and duplicated the problem, just couldn't figure out which valve was/wasn't doing what. So then it seems I'm OK with running it bypassing the smart features and letting the EGR run off ported vaccum? Just so you don't have to hedge your answer, Florida always exempted motorhomes from emissions testing, and a few years ago they completely scrapped their testing program.
Now, we need to hear how Vince did with his problem.
God Bless, jd