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Can anyone shed some light on the special thermostat required for the 1978/79 Dodge 440-3 engines? The Dodge Motorhome Chasis Manual requires only the use of balanced design thermostat PN 3837609 instead of the normal reverse poppet design. I am specifically interested if a rubber gasket is required under the bottom of this thermostat to seal it to the machined area in the block. Any information about this and posibly a PN would be greatly appreciated.
Lennie Seay
I have a problem if I drive the RV for abought 20 miles and shutt off the engiane
I can not get it started at lease i let it cool down It doesnt over heat but it dosint turn on
My '78/'79 Dodge Motor Home Chassis book does mention that 440-3 use a type of thermostat while the 360-3 can use either type, but no mention of what THAT type is; just pictures. My '78/'79 Dodge Motor Home Chassis Parts Manual lists thermostat part numbers as: #4131068-195 deg.; #3512998-185 deg. (if memory serves, my air cleaner label said to use 185 deg.-I changed to edelbrock air cleaner and threw out OEM air cleaner, so I can't confirm). My '78 MotorHome Operating Instructions and Product Info manual gives no detail of therm type or deg, only NOT to use a 160 deg. All (3) references make NO mention of a rubber gasket.
IMO, the therm seats in the counterbore dry and the seal comes from the paperlike gasket for the housing. I had to scrape out high temp silicone and pry out thermostat in my RV because of previous owner stupidity. I couldn't find a 185 deg therm, so I had to settle for a regular 180 deg. Stant superstat. In three years of daily driving in Vegas heat and cold, I've had no problems. Knock on wood.
I bought a 1979 dodge motorhome recently and it keeps stalling on me when I start down the road. I put a new fuel pump on it, new gas line. Could it be a battery? Or what troubleshooters goes along with this kind of engine. It is a LaPalma executive.
I don't know about Robert Shaw, but I got a 195 degree themostat at Parts America, (online), it was a Prestone # 370195 it is the same High Flow thermostat as the Robert Shaw but 195 Degrees. Parts America's web is: www.partsamerica.com I paid 11.99 + shipping. Sad to say it didn't solve my heating problem. Next for me is to try a fixed pitch non-clutch fan, then if no success, pull the heads & see if there is a gasket problem as the engine had been overhauled about 10,000 miles ago, and I think the previous owner had been battling the heating problem since. Good Luck.
Along the same line as this gentleman is having with overheating, I too have been fighting an overheating problem. I have had the radiator cored (at the time, it appears about 5 or 6 tubes have been pinched at the factory), replaced the water pump, replaced the fan clutch, replaced all hoses and have put in a lower temperature thermostat (which sounds like it may be the culprit).
Now, what disturbs me the most if this particular truck and I have to explain that this vehicle was purchased new without any cab behind the driver seats by my father-in-law(a certifiable mechanical engineer). My father-in-law built the Class C overhead coach for this truck back in the early 80's. It's not his construction, but the designation on the VIN number which does not correspond to anything in the DODGE manual or on-line part's replacements. The VIN number begins with F44CA9Vxxxxxx. It's the first three numbers that bother me. The first two do not correspond to anything I find in the manual. If the third number is correct about body type, it's an MB300 High Line Front Section. The fourth number C is correct because the GVWR is 11,500 listed on the driver's door. The fifth is "A" indicating a "440-3" type engine, the sixth is "9" for 1979, and the 7th is V for Warren Truck #3.
I just want to make sure that thermostat I put back into the engine is correct. I haven't ruled out the possibility of a cracked head yet. I have yet to test that part. But, the temperature is speed related and I have put a Stewart-Warner temp gauge and sender unit to replace the in-dash gauge because I wasn't sure if it was reading correctly.
You are correct about the 185 degree thermostat as the preferred range. I currently still have the original air cleaner which warns using only a 185 Degree P/N 3837609 Thermostat. Dodge tells me the number has been changed to 3512998 which you said your parts manual called for. The required thermostat pictured in the 78/79 Dodge Motor Home Chassis book is a balanced design hi-flow thermostat. Advantages of this type of design are fast response and increased coolant flows to the radiator, self cleaning design and unaffected by water pump pressure changes. The other pictured thermostat is the normal reverse poppet design. I also could not find the 185 degree replacement and did not want to pay $17.89 for the Dodge 3512998 thermostat. I found a Robertshaw Extra Performance PN 370-180 which is the correct design at Autozone for $4.99. The thermostat sits in the slight counterbore area as you mentioned and is sealed to the water outlet with a paperlike gasket. What is interesting though, is below the thermostat is a machined area in the block which is about 1/4 inch larger than the lower diameter of the thermostat and about 1/8 inch below the bottom. This machined area has a 1/8 high lip on the outside which would appear to hold a rubberlike gasket to seal this area to the thermostat. I don't understand why they would have machined this area instead of just leaving the original casting around the thermostat. I appreciate your response and am currently watching eBay for a 78/79 Motor Home Parts manual myself to compliment the Motor Home Chassis book I recently purchased from eBay.
RON I SAW YOUR MESSAGE ON THIS WEB PAGE I JUST GOT A 1978 DODGE MOTOR HOME AND HAVE BEEN FRANTICALLY LOOKING FOR A MANUAL FOR IT. IS THERE ANY WAY THAT YOU COULD HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM.. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU KNOW OF A PLACE TO GET A MANUAL OR I WOULD PAY YOU FOR A COPY OF YOURS, OR MAYBE THERE IS AN ADDRESS ON YOUR BOOK THAT YOU COULD SEND TO ME BY EMAIL. MY EMAIL IS crazydave@cfl.rr.com I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME... THANK YOU IN ADVANCE. DAVE
Hello New here
well
I had been working allweek sorting out plumbing and electic's on my Dodge RV
We got half way to our destination and the engine started to over heat
the vehical had been sitting a few years and had been given to us for nothing...
anyhow on the road side i put in a new thermastat becouse the old one looked shot...
i ran the thing and put fluid in the rad and it was comming out of the fill cap on the cad as fast as it was being put in...
Has the head gasket gone...
anyhow we had no vacation and it cost me $450 dollars for the tow home...
I bought the parts manual at a store specializing in out of print car books of all sorts for $49 + ship. The repair manual was a steal (I thought) at $15 from a different specialty store. I didn't have a cd-rom a few years when I was shopping for the manuals, but I kinda regret not buying the parts manual on cd. I think it was around $50 and had other info and updates on it and copies of other manuals. I also could have purchased the complete mechanics motorhome repair manual (you know, the one that is several inches think) for $150 on cd. I think I saw your manual on ebay for $35(last I saw). Was that you? I've seen parts manual on ebay for around $30-50 for various 70's years but never '78, so I just decided to pay the $50 when I saw the year I needed available at the store. I didn't realize the different therm styles when I changed mine, so I never looked inside at the different machined steps. As for trying to understand WHY Dodge does what it does, I've stopped, because it gives me a headache. LOL
The Robertshaw 370 series thermostats have a dual function.
Unlike the flat disc-type t-stat, the 370 has a skirt that moves up and down.
If the t-stat housing is made for this unit, it will have a seat down below the skirt.
When the engine is cold, the water flows from the block through a bypass hose or passage, maintaining good flow in the block.
When the engine gets to temp, the skirt drops, allowing less flow through the bypass and more through the radiator.
When the engine is pulling a good hill (temp above setpoint), the skirt blocks the bypass completely, and the bulk of the flow is directed to the radiator.
Advantages include better flow in the block, better warm-up, and better cooling flow through the radiator.
There is no need for a rubber seat below the skirt. (Some larger t-stats of this design have a lip seal that rides on the O.D. of the skirt, allowing for more precise control)
Using a flat-type t-stat in a housing that has a bypass port will not allow full flow to the radiator, limiting cooling capacity.
Design is used extensively in bigger diesel engines.
Keep your cool! Use distilled water in radiators, and 25-30% antifreeze in southern climates, instead of 50/50. Water is a better conductor of heat! See
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
RK
On the dodge chassis motorhome all the parts such as correct t-stat & the rv h2o pump better be their.Heats a real killer not only cooling system but your distributer control model which is mounted useally around engine compartment,add some more heat to this area & your on the side of the road & paying a big wrecker bill.I have an !976 Apollo rv with the 440-3.I TOTALLY went thru it inside & out 5 yrs ago.Radiator sytem has to have the hd correct t-stat.For example,last year I went on vacation & made to rv park.Top radiator hose busted.At my leisure during the week I ran down & grabbed Top & bottom hoses at an auto zone.Might as well not take a chance,well I made a decision to change the t-sta while the antifreeze was lost.The thermostat was a hd but for a smaller truck,not as style mention in one of thew messages.The motor home ran hotter than usual.Inside the range on the gauge,but too hot for 70-75 mph cruizing.I had to back off to 55-60mph to keep temp down,especialy in the hills.If you ever get the right t-stat & compare it to the wrong one which the opening isn't as big which restricts flow big time.Go to the stove & boil some h20 & submerge both types of t-stats.See how big the opening in the right makes.Some people think the little holes are what open,but the whole asembly moves & opens up.My motor home actuall had a turbo charger added as a dealer add on.This add on came with an auxillary fan to cool engine compartment due to added heat.The motor home ran like a scalded dog,but special exhaust manifold for the turbo had some cracking problems due to the casting.Plenty of power & motorhome would run 115mph to 120mph.Problems the turbo created were 1#heat in engine compartment 2# starting problems due to heat 3# uneducated operators that would'nt let engine idle for a cool down period after running out on highway for several hrs when they do a pitstop 4# Could'nt keep plug wires from burning on turbo side & wrapped with oven insulation 5#water injection synoid for turbo would stick if h2o line wasn't filtered,thust filling the engine with water & motor not turning over or starting.Back to another hint to the guy that has the stalling problem I'll address a few things1# most the gas tanks were built out of steel,rust will develope & you'll run fine for a trip around the block then when gas starts sloshing around the particles of rust will be in fuel filters stopping them up & on to the carbuerator to ruin a day of your time cleaning it & rebuilding it.Pump the tanks & pull them & get them coated with (renew).Trust me problem solved & no big tow fees with a tow driver foaming out of his mouth for the big tow.$$$$$$.Make sure the ceramic resistors replaced,module box & one other really important thing (that only if you went on the ride I went on losing electrical power going down the road sarting & stoping every few miles with all the distributor items aboved replaced.I was really cofused,especialy when all parts are new.Chek the mmain wiring clip has ben installed correct,not clipped wron way to get intermittent contact like some DA did who jacked with it.This clip is on the driver side coming off the relay to the coach.My dad & bolder brothers all had the dodge chassis motor homes & went thru some of these encounters but I got educated once I redid the Apollo completely.Now I ride down the the road & make it to my destination.(knock on wood).If a oem t-stat is all you can find, buy it,whats $15 bucks compared to pulling an overheated motor out of your rv,this cost a ton of $.Moral of the story is this,if you own a motorhome you better be able to be handy enough to work on your car & your home & very well,cause that basicly what an rv is,but a lot cheaper components & since it's not used consistently adds a big problem.Even the new one's you better get your tool box ready to open.The higher dollar ones with the disel motors & disel generators are alot better,disesl can sit without use & not be hampered as much.When you service them get ready for$$$$$.If your a fixer upper & want one for the kids just rememember,if it's older & been sitting tanks,filters,get it cleaned up or you'll grow to hate spending your time on the side of the highway.They are easier to work on & a shade tree mechanic like myself can work on it without throwing thew wallet to them when you walk in the door.Newr with complicated regr,appliancescomputer boxes operating the main motor will make you hollar uncle & give up & throw the wallet.I was stupid,I bought old,have a reasonable amt of money & time in my rv & did'nt tie up big retirement $$$ just to travel a few times a yr.Our family have enjoyed the great times together we spent camping out & the kids are just exiting the house but still remember our great trips.JR
Can anyone tell me where I can but the Robert Shaw Thermostat that has the skint and fits in the dodge 440 engine with a thermostat seat below the regular seat. It is suppose to be a 370-180.