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87' Ford 460 running HOTT Duane Bailey 9-9-02  
I have a remanufactured 460 engine with 2500 miles on it. After the first trip out the temp. has run 220 degrees +. I have changed the thermostat and replaced the fan clutch but it still runs hot. It never boils over, but causes oil to leak out of some gaskets because of the heat. The more power you get out of the engine the hotter is gets, but when you coast it goes back down to 220 degrees. I removed the thermostat completely and it runs around 210 degrees, but acts the same. Anyone ever had this problem? What was the solution? Thanks in advance, Duane
Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT Joe 9-9-02  
You could have one of several different problems. Did your old engine temperature run normal? Is the engine timing set properly(first guess)? Who installed the engine? Who overhauled it? If the timing is set properly, and the bottom hose isn't collapsing, fan is working properly, radiator core clean, you may have mismatched heads or head gaskets. I have encountered this several times where an engine rebuilder uses regular heads on a high output engine and the gaskets either match the head or the block(second guess). In either case, coolant flow is restricted and the engine runs hot. Just guessing here, but I need a lot more info to go on.
Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT Duane Bailey 9-10-02  
Joe, The engine was a remanufactured unit from Recon. The bottom hose has a spring in it to keep it from collapsing. The timing is set to the specs. on the hood. A shade tree mechanic that is no longer in business installed it. Fan is turning properly with a new fan clutch. I get a whine from the engine compartment sometimes while under acceleration and it stops when I let off and coast or run at low rpm's. Is it possible the water pump impeller is slipping under a load? Thanks, Duane
Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT Joe 9-10-02  
If the water pump was slipping, it would probably slip all the time, but it is worth checking. A whine could be a vacuum leak, alternator bearing or an idler bearing not related to overheating, or it could be. A bad vacuum leak can cause a lean condition and run hot. Also check the air intake. An over active EGR valve could give you a heating up problem. Yours is a vacuum controlled EGR and a line could be hooked up to a wrong place. Also, There are so many combinations of crank pulleys and timing indicators that that you could have a mismatch.
Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT joel mitchell 5-28-03  
I have a 460 big block in my 1989 mustang it was rebuilt and bored out everything is basically new the intake, headers, pulleys, fan and the rad. I was having a cooling problem untill I added a grffith aluminum rad and it helped me large. As well we added a new product called water wetter by red line..
Joe I have been playing with differt settings on my timming and was woundering what you would suggest a got spot to start at would bet to set it at with a light. I can't seem to get it were it works best and there isn't much out the to find info. thanks for any help..
Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT martin 6-1-03  
I have a 1977 Lincoln I bought used with a 460 engine that was overheating in a similiar fashon. When I replaced the water pump I found the cause. On Ford 460's and 429's before 1979 (I have a 429 in my pick-up), there is a seperate flat plate behind the water pump and in front of the timing cover. (I bought the plate from Ford for about $ 25, but was quoted a price of $ 35 and 11 day delivery at one FORD dealer.) The water pump can be installed without this plate with no noticialble consequences, but the water pump impeller spins in a large space instead of a confined area created by the backing plate. This plate was missing on my Lincoln. In addition this will put the water pump pulley back about 1/16". If this is your problem be sure you check all mounting plates for the power steering and alternator AC. On my Lincoln some of the mounts had been "adjusted" with washers. I have also had trouble with replacement fan clutches. There are long shaft and short shaft clutches that both fit, but will put the cooling fan in a very different location. If the cluitch is too far from the radiator it will not engage in high heat conditions.

To check for the plate look ath the water pump to timing cover connection. There shoud cleraly be a gasket behing the water pump, then the plate (1/16") then another gasket, then then timing cover. I would recommend checking this before removing the heads.

Since I replaced the backing plate my Lincoln has been running much cooler.
I have no way of knowing how long my Lincoln was run without the plate in place. I have replaced the transmission which was trashed. I am not sure if the engine heat caused it, but it may not have helped. Also the overheating did trash my starter. A number of times I was not able to start the car after driving in the heat of the day and parking, once cool the engine started.

Hope this helps

Re: 87' Ford 460 running HOTT JIM WALLACE 7-24-03  
I read an RV manual years ago that said the 460 engines were shipped from the factory with the cam timing retarded 8 -12 degrees, I believe. Modern publications advise that cam timing gears give the user the option of advancing the cam timing 4, 6, or 8 degrees. Does anyone know what is recommended for modern cams?

I also run a 460 (Lincoln Engine) in a 1986 F150. It ran hot before I pulled it out and put in a rebuilt one. One problem I was able to fix was the water pump when I went back with the new engine. Summitt and JEG's sells a HIPO water pump that moves about 50% more water. In addition, I left the thermostat out. It takes a bit longer to come up to operating temperature, but with temperatures here in Mississippi hovering in the high 90's during the summer, it doesn't make much difference.

I had the engine set up at +8 degrees cam timing over factory setting and 8 degrees advance on the distributor timing. Thus far, I haven't had a problem.

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