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Check Engine Light Naresh 8-22-02  
I have a 1993 Ford Taurus. When I drive 20-30 miles, sometimes the check engine light comes up. But then if I turn of the engine and restart it does not appear. It is annoying my greatly. Any suggestion?
Re: Check Engine Light Lee 4-28-06  
1995 Mazda 2300 series, 21,000 miles, Engine light stays on and also now after having the truck parked in the sun the alarm/cab lights stays on up to 3-4 minutes. A few months ago Auto-Zone checked it..results code 1443.
Talked with a Madza mechanic..he told me to disconnect the battery...engine light went out for a few weeks. It's back on!!! The truck is in great running condition. Should I be concern???
Re: Check Engine Light Robert 8-22-02  
You will need a code reader to see what trouble code was recorded to your engine's computer. There is another way to check by connecting some wires, a 12v light, and reading the blink sequence (I will have to check on this and get back to you on how to set this up, as I haven't done one of these in a long time; unless someone else on this forum knows off hand). Haynes (manuals) usually give a detailed explanation of the codes. Most of the time, the problem is associated with smog stuff, which by the way is mandated by Federal law to be warranted beyond the car's standard 3/36 warranty. Once you know what the problem is, you can fix it, and clear the code from your computer. You can also buy a relatively inexpensive code reader at an automotive parts store such as NAPA or Schucks (btw $20 to $40). A note of interest...I had a '94 Ford Explorer with just a shade past 37k miles, and 3 years (Murphy's Law - just after the warranty had expired) which kept tripping the Check Engine Light. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong, so they just reset the light. But this problem kept repeating itself with no apparent pattern, and the truck ran fine. This kept up for about 2 months, but I didn't want to pay for the trips to the dealer's shop any more. So, I'd finally bought a computer reader and performed the test myself, but couldn't find anything either. I did noticed, however, that the temp gauge was stuck in the cold position. A mechanic friend of mine told me that it could be a bad thermostat causing this, as he'd seen quite a few of this problem with Fords. The thermostat would go bad by sticking in the open position. This will cause the engine to run cold continueously, which will make the computer think that it's running rich, or something like that. Low and behold, I pulled the thermostat and tested it, which turned out that it was indeed stuck in the open position. I changed the thermostat, reset the computer's memory, and never had a problem since. Soon after (and fortunately before the Firestone tire troubles), we traded the Explorer for another set of headaches - a '95 Range Rover, but that's another story. Will get back to you on the light wiring, if I can find my notes/manuals.

Good luck.
Re: Check Engine Light DAN BRIDA 9-3-03  
Re: Check Engine Light Pete Maizitis 12-8-02  
I was glad I read this thread. It helped with my "check engine" problem with my 1997 Ford Explorer (V8 - Cleveland 302). Problem just arose this last week just after 64,000 miles. I do my own maintenance (oil, filters) and the dealer performs the other maintenance (transmission, radiator).
I made plans to visit NAPA to purchase the code reader. Opened the hood before going and wiggled wires, pulled on a few connectors and lo and behold when I started the car there no longer was a "check engine" light. Suspect that in this case there was some contamination in a connector or minor corrosion (similar to the connector corrosion problems I ran into with my long gone 1969 Mustang). Suggest that you might try the same, reseat some of the key cable connectors under the hood, taking care for precautions with the impact system. Also, Ford cautions against resetting the PCM by disconnecting the battery as this would erase the stored operating parameters and cause the engine to run rough until the PCM relearned the parameters.
PCMs for Ford Explorers 1996 and later have EEC V (OBD-II) systems... suspect the Taurus would be OBD-I which is a little more involved for testing with a code reader. The OBD-II systems have a simple plugin under the steering column typically on my Explorer. The OBD-I requires testing under the hood with voltmeter. Code readers I saw ran from $149 and up.
What was convenient with my problem was that NAPA was closed, I went to Autozone who performed the code read test free and even reset the code for free.
Hope this helps as it may be related to the first thread.
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