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|73 Superior RV 440 cid cranks slow/metal braded oil dip stick gets very hoteg||Gary Zuckerman||1-17-15|
|73 Superior RV. 440 engine. Bought it without being able to start it. Found Starter bad-replaced it. Found balast resistor bad-replaced it. Coil was weak-replaced it. Vehicle would not make a sound when trying turning the key for the ignition switch. Ran a remote starter button to crank over the vehicle. Noticed a little bit of smoke near the radiator for a second(more about this later). Used the boost mode of a professional battery charger with a 200amp boost because the battery was weak. Was able to start engine. It runs great. Ran it for about 4 minutes. Shut using the key switch. Hit the remote button and half a crank started this engine which had not been started for more than two years. It started even though the gas was obviously old. I called it a night. I returned to start it the next weekend and it only would crank but wont start. I put a known good battery in it and it cranks very slowly. Also I noticed that it was smoking again near the radiator. Investigatin, I found the metal braded oil dip stick was very hot(too hot to touch) for the 1st 6 inches of the stick on the pull end and whatever old oil was there was burning off of the stick at the pull end. What is that about???? Is it possible the engine is part of a dead short? I investigated the ignition switch and found disappointment here. The ignition switch has felt sticky in its return from the crank position to the run position each time I have tried. I believe it was already failing/failed and I was lucky it allowed me the circuit to complete to the balast etc when I had it held in the start position while using the remote ignition button to start the engine when it happened. I cant replace the ignition switch yet, its molex pin connectors are in bad shape for both the ignition switch terminus AND the male pin connector terminus. They at one point were BURNT IN HALF and just taped back together! I have called molex to see if I can find the male end for to wire harness end so I can replace that part of the harness with new pins on a new connector that will connect up my new switch/switch harness. I removed the steering column to gain better access. I tried cranking the engine without the ignition switch connected and again the smoke appeared from the burning of the oil residue when the oil dip stick got hot again...What could cause the six inches of the pull end of this dip stick to get so hot while trying to crank the engine? Why is it cranking so slowly, there is no way its going to start with it laboring to crank. There is plenty of oil in the engine. Remember, this engine DID START FOR ME AND RUNS GREAT. It just wont crank fast enough to do it again. I havent tried to use the battery booster again because of the hot dip stick....HELP!!!|
|Re: 73 Superior RV 440 cid cranks slow/metal braded oil dip stick gets very hot!||Gary Zuckerman||1-17-15|
|Corrected subject line from previous post where I had fat fingers and added 2 letters that had no business being there!|
|Re: 73 Superior RV 440 cid cranks slow/metal braded oil dip stick gets very hoteg||Gary Zuckerman||1-18-15|
|Answering my own question, So the basics are IMPORTANT. I though since I had spent all kinds of time shoring up extra ground connections for the plate that the module,balast,and external alternator regulator are attached to,along with with an extra ground wire for the ignition relay that I had handled all the grounds needed. NOT SO. Upon further review,I found 3 basic things needed to get this old beast to crank over the way it is supposed to. Im not sure if everything needed doing but the end result is its fixed. I found the inexpensive replacement battery terminal ends were loose enough see the end strands wiggle when the cable was moved for both the positive and the negative cable. I snugged down the 7/16 bolts that secure the bracket that locks the cable snug against the terminal for both cables to make sure they tight. No more wiggle at the strands that are sticking out. I notice there was NO ground strap from the engine to the frame. I made one and attached it from the lowest of the engine to bellhousing bolts. The wire makes contact with the engine there. The other end was bolted to the frame. Both areas were sanded shinny to expose fresh metal. Now it cranks nice and fast and there is no smell of burning electric or a hot oil dip stick. Still cant start it because I need to wire up the new ignition switch. I will be repairing the vehicle harness to fix the previously badly patched together wiring/ burnt in half and just taped together connectors. I am waiting for a connector so I can do it properly...I have no doubt that it will start right up once I reinstall the steering column with the new turn signal switch and new ignition switch installed. I know the last owner gave up on this motor home because of this no crank/no start problem after having the RV for two years. I believe the guy who had it before him also was chasing this problem. Im not done yet but am closer.|
So far: New Starter old one was completely gone/even bench testing while banging it with a hammer couldnt get it to do anything. New ballast resister. New coil. I have a new ignition switch ready as previously mentioned. I am looking for a new turn signal switch. I added a new engine to frame ground strap,new ground strap for the electronics, and starter solenoid relay.
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|Re: 73 Superior RV 440 cid cranks slow/metal braded oil dip stick gets very hoteg||BUBBA THE BUS TECH||1-19-15|
|1st The dip stick was 100% a simptom of no ground strap.|
My advice is to give up on the original ignition switch and wire in a goud universal switch. Not as pretty but much cheaper and you will be on the road much faster than waiting for parts that will never arrive.
|Re: 73 Superior RV 440 cid cranks slow/metal braded oil dip stick gets very hot!||bryant||5-30-15|
|Hey I have a 1977 Dodge 440 Mopar engine its a cruise air 25 ft, you rv is giving you trouble because you need two battery's, get ready you have to replace the ignition module behind the engine if that's where yours is at keep the push button start immobilize key start trust me if you do this you won't be replacing resisters replace the voltage regulator and ignition coil get a msd coil blaster much better. And that's it mines sat 16 years before I got it and its a charm good on gas also|