ATTENTION: DO NOT POST ADS IN FORUMS! All Postings that advertise items for sale will be deleted from the Discussion Forum. You may post sale items for free in the Classifieds section. Sign up now.
97 Dodge Caravan Sport electrical problems.
Tach and Speedo quit working than working at next start up (happened once).
Lower console (wipers, AC, defroster, etc) lights blinking but go off after 10 minutes or so but blinking again at next start up.
Absolutely nothing(engine and dash lights) when trying to start van, but on second try (turning key) everything works (happened a couple of times).
Turn ignition off and something clicking (rapidly) under dash but quits after about 10 seconds (happened once).
Odometer and gear selector indicator lights "studdering" but came on solid after using turn signal(happened once).
Have owned van about one month and runs fine, problems are only occasional.
Appreciate any help, Tom
Hello,
I will like to purchase your (7 Dodge Caravan ) and i will want you to get back to me with the last price and the pics, for the shipping i will be responsible for it.
Thanks
Hi,Ihave adodge caravan97,3.3 l engine,it starts but after a few second engine shuts off looks like after ignition it sucks some fuel and turn on but after consumption of that amount there is no more back up and engine fails. All lights turned on except KM,brake and engine lights.
We just had the oil changed an now it's leaking near the belts, but wasn't before the oil change.... Do you think the water pump it going out.... The belts squeld a little last week but isn't now.... any ideas ????
Same electrical promlems as stated above. van will crank up and then after @ 5-10 sec it will shut off. other times while driving, all sensors will come on and all needles will drop, however van will still run until its cut off.
I had problems geting my van to started. I just bought a new starter and now the only way it would start is by runing a wire straight from the starter to the battery.
When I turn the wipers off in my '97 Grand Caravan, they keep running. I turn the ignition off and they still keep running. They will -Park- if I use my hand too chase one down to the park position. Also, they will -park- if used on the delay setting, but will do anything from one to three sweeps before -parking- but will continue to run when the ignition is switched-off.
I have replaced the wiper motor and turn-signal multi-switch with good used units, but my problem still exists. I am a licensed mechanic, but not well versed in Dodge electrical systems.
My Hayne's manual wiring diagrams show an electronic control module between the column switch and the wiper motor. Could this be causing the problem and do you know where it is located? Your's, Thankfully, Mike B.
My van is leaking oil got the valve cover gaskets replaced and the pvc valve replaced. Now it is leaking and looks watered down. It only leaks when i start it. It also has a hissing sound that only occurs when it starts.
And the problems are only going to get worse... Had all the symptoms above in '98 Grand Caravan. At first very intermittently & now after apx 3yrs, continuously. Started w engine starts but runs for 3 secs & shuts off.. EVERYTHING else appeared normal EXCEPT that I knew I was going to have this problem whenever the odometer & shift indicator flourescent display didn't come on... Could usually get it working again by pounding on the top of the dash to the left or right of the instrument cluster...Now, Parking Brake Light comes on with brake fully released [not a switch problem] and the low fuel indicator will 'bong' & the gas gage will start to fall; it will then start to rise again & the low fuel lamp goes out... I've had my speedometer & tachometer go dead yet everything else is fine & car keeps running.. I also found that if I had to pound on the dash hard enough, the engine wouldn't even crank.. Leave the damn thing alone for 4 hours and everythin works fine... This is NOT a simple problem judging by all the other blogs I've read. It is NOT a battery/voltage issue. What I believe it is is either failing solder connection on the instrument cluster or interconnecting cables or corrosion on some multipin connector responsible for feeding input to the controller for these functions. Before spending thousands of dollars at ANY repair shop, get an iron clad guarantee of repair for a specified cost.. And Mike, sell the damn thing if you can before you invest any money... It's like Chrysler AIDS and there's no cure yet... Regards to all/john
Follow up: Just did some more digging; check out the comments here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f118eee. You'll have to edit the URL because this note pad is seperating the URL after the dash. At any rate, it appears that I was correct, removing the instrument cluster, resoldering the connector joints AND cleaning the connectors [male & female] should do the trick.. I'm going to bite the bullet & pull my panel off & being an electronics technician, should hopefully have similar success.. Will keep y'all posted. Cheers