Battery isolator question

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Battery isolator question

Home > Discussion Forum > Mechanic's Corner - Electrical

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All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
Battery isolator question	Michael Lacy	9-29-03
Hi, have a 1970 Starcraft cls A that has new starter and coach batteries. No coach lights or power on 12v - engine and all auto lights work fine off the starter batt. Alternator is putting out 13.5 amps. The batt isolator was there but not hooked up when I bought the rv. Has a converter that seems fine. Also there are two breakers and a bigger switch on the same box that is a mystery. How should I proceed to hook up the isolator - esp which terminals do the wires start out at. Thanks, Mike
Re: battery isolator question	Steve	1-19-04
I recently purchased a used RV and found the deep-cycle battery to be somehow drawing power from the engine compartment battery. That is... when i use the cabin lights or fans the rear battery drains the front battery. If I jump start the RV from the front battery it takes forever to get the engine to start, but if i put the cables on the "cabin" battery it cranks over instantly. I know the isolator is hooked up wrong as the front battery is hooked to the"A" on the isolator and the cabin's battery is hooked to the "2" terminal of the isolator.The "1" terminal is open(unused) so i presume the alternator is charging battery 1 which in turn is charging battery 2.My question is... how should it be connected? Does the alternatorlead wire get spliced to the isolator or is it connected only to the isolator?
Re: battery isolator question	John Ogletree	9-29-03
If you're talking about a battery isolator, located under the hood, the ones I've seen are connected to the large alternator output terminal and to the starting and coach batteries. Alternator output to the IN terminal and batteries to the OUT terminal. All it amounts to is two diodes with their anodes connected to the alternator output and their cathodes connected to the pos. battery terminals. Be sure your alternator output can charge both batteries. Some are not able to do that.
Re: battery isolator question	george	9-30-03
The hook up is easy.. altenator is unhooked from the engine battery and hooked to the center post of the isolator then you hook one each of the other 2 post to either the engine battery or the aux house battery.. but you said no 12v in the house/coach.. if you have a new battery and the convertor wiring is correct and the unit OK then you should have lights and power untill your new battery goes down ( discharges ) do have lights & power when hooked to 110 volt shore power ? if not.. you have problems some where in the 12dc convertor switching..
Re: battery isolator question	MJL	9-30-03
George, Thanks for the reply - on shore power everything works fine. The converter has a switch that has Batt and Trans on either side of the toggle - any thoughts on the purpose of it? Does the battery isolator have to be connected to be able to run off the coach battery? Mike
Re: battery isolator question	george	10-3-03
The house battery should work without the isolator, it just won't get charged when driving.. you convertor, does not have a charge circuit.. when you are plugged into shore power set the switch to trans ( transformer ) supplies 12v dc with ripple in it ( your lights may pulse ) when dry camping ( no hookups ) put the switch in batt position.. check for a fuse in the switch wiring.. i would replace the convertor with a newer model.. I prefer the ones that hook directly to the battery with out a relay inside.. all shore battery is on the battery charge cicuit and any power not being used by the lights goes to charging the battery.. the relay style ( like in my 82 pace arrow ) have a minimal charge rate that is only good for maintain batteries not recharging them.