Electronic ignition problem

RV and bus conversion info since 1996.

Share Your Feedback

PRINT PAGE

RV Classifieds

		1978 MCI mci mc-8 - $55,000
		1998 Prevost Country Coach - $450,000
		2001 Carriage Cameo - $37,500
		1985 Monaco Crown Royale - $56,000
		2003 Lance 920 - $14,600
		VIEW ALL
		Search RV Classifieds
		Classifieds Policies
		Benefits for Dealers
		Sell Your RV
		Dealer Signup

Useful Links

RV Community

		Discussion Groups
		RV Articles
		RV FAQs
		RV Classified Ads
		Virtual RV Park
		Shop at our Store
		RV Lifestyle Books
		Rate Your RV
		AllThingsRV.com
		MyRVGuide.com
		RVMechanic.com
		Advertise With Us

BECOME A MEMBER

RV Resources

		e RV Loans
		Sculptures for your RV
		Visit Rio Rancho, NM for Winter
		RV Dealers
		RV Manufacturers
		RV Rentals
		RV Glossary
		RV Types
		RV Ratings

Electronic ignition problem

Home > Discussion Forum > Mechanic's Corner - Electrical

email jon

reply to message

post new message

search forums

hidden layer

ATTENTION: All Postings that advertise items for sale will be deleted from the Discussion Forum. You may post sale items for free in the Classifieds section. Sign up now.

All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
Electronic ignition problem	jon	2-2-03
I have a 1974 road runner that i bought with no engine or transmission. It came stock with a 318 so i found a 318 with trans out of a 71 Fury. The motor was an electronic ignition engine. I now have the 71 318 in my 74 road runner. The distributor that came on the motor is for electronic ignition. The ballast resistor that is on my road runner is a dual type. I have 2 types of ECU that i have tried to switch to get it running but i am not sure which one is supposed to go on it or which one will make it run with the 71 engine. My problem is that the motor starts, but when i let off the key from start it cuts cold off. I changed ballast resistors and the problem still persists. What would be my problem? Would a bad fusible link do anything, or a bad ignition switch or a bad ECU or bad relay switch. i have switched relay switches and ballast resistors. I am not sure what else to look for. The motor ran good when i took it out the car! If you could help me out i woudl appreciate it. thanks!
Re: Electronic ignition problem	Sam Watson	2-2-03
To check system: use a 12 volt test light, or a volt meter. turn key to "run", go to coil + terminal, should be 10-11 volts or bright light there. If not, go to ballast resister,check both sides, one end should show full battery voltage/bright light, both sides, other end should show 10-11 volts/ dimmer light one side, 4-6 volts/very dim light other side. Do this and come back with what you find.
Re: Electronic ignition problem	sean	4-1-03
I have just swapped the engine in my ford adventurer camper for an engine out of a transit pickup.the new engine had an electronic ignition distributor in it.i try to fit the old distributor but it wont fit.how can i wire up the distributor to get the engine to run.will i need any other parts if so what?
Re: Electronic ignition problem	Rick	2-11-06
Hey i bought a 1969 dodge van that had an engine fire.this van has a 318 with electronic ign.can you tell me how to wire it.ang help would be great.
Re: Electronic ignition problem	Danni	4-5-07
95 grand cherokee. turned key, nothing, no dash lights and wouldn't start. tried it a few times, then it started. Problem?