Need Battery expert!

RV and bus conversion info since 1996.

Share Your Feedback

PRINT PAGE

RV Classifieds

		2002 Beaver Marquis - $325,000
		2005 Bigfoot Ind 25B175CB - $23,500
		2003 Keystone RV Keystone Mountaineer Model #315 RLS-SLD - $21,750
		1964 Flxible Flxliner - $50,000
		1977 Custom Built 2004 Conversion - $52,400
		VIEW ALL
		Search RV Classifieds
		Classifieds Policies
		Benefits for Dealers
		Sell Your RV
		Dealer Signup

Useful Links

RV Community

		Discussion Groups
		RV Articles
		RV FAQs
		RV Classified Ads
		Virtual RV Park
		Shop at our Store
		RV Lifestyle Books
		Rate Your RV
		AllThingsRV.com
		MyRVGuide.com
		RVMechanic.com
		Advertise With Us

BECOME A MEMBER

RV Resources

		e RV Loans
		Sculptures for your RV
		Visit Rio Rancho, NM for Winter
		RV Dealers
		RV Manufacturers
		RV Rentals
		RV Glossary
		RV Types
		RV Ratings

Need Battery expert!

Home > Discussion Forum > Mechanic's Corner - Electrical

email Leo kate

reply to message

post new message

search forums

hidden layer

ATTENTION: All Postings that advertise items for sale will be deleted from the Discussion Forum. You may post sale items for free in the Classifieds section. Sign up now.

All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
Need Battery expert!	Leo kate	4-23-02
The battery holder in my Ford Chasis, class C seems to limit me to a Group 24 size accessory battery. The one that was in there was a Dual Purpose Starting/Deep Cyle. I was caught off guard on our recent long term travels. Before we left, I charged and added distilled water to both the starting battery and the dual purpose one. When I got back, the dual purpose battery was out of water and it only put out 9v. I guess, I learned a lesson that the accessory battery is constantly being charged while on shore power and then driving overcharged it. Am i correct that I should check the water/acid level while it is used for a month or more on shore power? Next...what's the correct battery to buy to replace the Dual purpose accessory battery. I see many manufacturers are telling you to make a choice...either starting or deep cycle, but not a combination? The starting battery is fine. The Deep Cycle batteries seem to require a different battery charger. My Ford uses the old fashioned solenoid to charge both batteries while we travel. Will this "fry" a deep cycle battery? Is there a website that explains all the various ways battery companies report power? Cranking amps, Cold cranking amps, Ampere hours, Reserver hours....very inconsistent and confusing. Help!
Re: Need Battery expert!	john	2-3-04
Ck voltage at battery it should never be higher thea 14.2-5 volts or batterys will boil dry. John
Re: Need Battery expert!	Dave	4-23-02
The battery holder in my Ford Chasis, class C seems to limit me to a Group 24 size accessory battery. The one that was in there was a Dual Purpose Starting/Deep Cyle. I was caught off guard on our recent long term travels. Before we left, I charged and added distilled water to both the starting battery and the dual purpose one. When I got back, the dual purpose battery was out of water and it only put out 9v. I guess, I learned a lesson that the accessory battery is constantly being charged while on shore power and then driving overcharged it. Am i correct that I should check the water/acid level while it is used for a month or more on shore power? Next...what's the correct battery to buy to replace the Dual purpose accessory battery. I see many manufacturers are telling you to make a choice...either starting or deep cycle, but not a combination? The starting battery is fine. The Deep Cycle batteries seem to require a different battery charger. My Ford uses the old fashioned solenoid to charge both batteries while we travel. Will this "fry" a deep cycle battery? Is there a website that explains all the various ways battery companies report power? Cranking amps, Cold cranking amps, Ampere hours, Reserver hours....very inconsistent and confusing. Help!
Re: Need Battery charging	FAST FRED	4-27-02
Sounds to me that the house battery was not getting charged from the engine. There is a solenoid ($15.00) that joins the start batt and std charging system . I think yours is not working. To check get a Volt merer from Radio Shack ($10.00) will do just fine and measure the volts across both batterys with the engine ON. Both should be same , somewhere between 13.4 and 14.4 If only the start bat has a raised voltage and the house doesnt , its time to spring for the solenoid. Your converter probably held the house batt while plugged in , then it never got recharged. Best bet for a house batt is Sears Golf cart , deep cycle batt. Cheap and good they charge the same as every other RV or start Batt. Good luck, FAST FRED
Go to this web site and you can find out all you want to know about batteries http://www.rv-info.net/rvgadgets.html	Dave	4-23-02
The battery holder in my Ford Chasis, class C seems to limit me to a Group 24 size accessory battery. The one that was in there was a Dual Purpose Starting/Deep Cyle. I was caught off guard on our recent long term travels. Before we left, I charged and added distilled water to both the starting battery and the dual purpose one. When I got back, the dual purpose battery was out of water and it only put out 9v. I guess, I learned a lesson that the accessory battery is constantly being charged while on shore power and then driving overcharged it. Am i correct that I should check the water/acid level while it is used for a month or more on shore power? Next...what's the correct battery to buy to replace the Dual purpose accessory battery. I see many manufacturers are telling you to make a choice...either starting or deep cycle, but not a combination? The starting battery is fine. The Deep Cycle batteries seem to require a different battery charger. My Ford uses the old fashioned solenoid to charge both batteries while we travel. Will this "fry" a deep cycle battery? Is there a website that explains all the various ways battery companies report power? Cranking amps, Cold cranking amps, Ampere hours, Reserver hours....very inconsistent and confusing. Help!
No interior lights, coach batteries not charging	jmhelm	6-7-03
Have a 92 winnebago. recently noticed coach batteries not supplying juice for lights. also batteries are not being charged even when plugged in. any ideas?
Re: Go to this web site and you can find out all you want to know about batteries http://www.rv-info.net/rvgadgets.html	Leo kate	4-24-02
Thanks Dave, the links there were very helpful. I have most of the info I need, but I still want to know if the DC power provided by shore power, goes through the battery. I just want to know if I should be maintaining the battery as if I were driving it daily for several weeks.
Re: Go to this web site and you can find out all you want to know about batteries http://www.rv-info.net/rvgadgets.html	Sam Watson	4-24-02
Thanks Dave, the links there were very helpful. I have most of the info I need, but I still want to know if the DC power provided by shore power, goes through the battery. I just want to know if I should be maintaining the battery as if I were driving it daily for several weeks. Yes, while you are on shore power and your converter is operating, then the charger section will "push" current into the battery. When the battery is fully charged, then this current will cause the electrolyte(liquid) in the battery to heat and lose water, so you must check/add water as needed as long as you are plugged in.
Re: Go to this web site and you can find out all you want to know about batteries http://www.rv-info.net/rvgadgets.html	Alan Ward	5-1-02
Thanks Dave, the links there were very helpful. I have most of the info I need, but I still want to know if the DC power provided by shore power, goes through the battery. I just want to know if I should be maintaining the battery as if I were driving it daily for several weeks. Yes, while you are on shore power and your converter is operating, then the charger section will "push" current into the battery. When the battery is fully charged, then this current will cause the electrolyte(liquid) in the battery to heat and lose water, so you must check/add water as needed as long as you are plugged in. Unless you have an isolator! My coach has 2 isolators and I isolate both (the house batt and starting batt) as soon as I plug in to shore power (unless I want to charge for a while).