RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)

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RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)

Home > Discussion Forum > Mechanic's Corner - Electrical

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All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	Herschel	4-11-09
I own a 2001 Fleetwood Angler and am trying to diagnose some strange electrical issues. When the RV is running on 110v power, the 110v power in the RV is fine, but there is no 12v power. When running on 12v battery for power, the lights in the RV are real dim and the furnace motor runs slow, whether furnace is on or off. One guy I spoke to thinks there may be a bad diod in the converter and that when on battery the furnace may be running backward through the diod and runs the battery down really quick. The converter is a MagnaTek 6720 (since been bought out by Parralux). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Re: RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	Herschel	4-13-09
Yes, I have reset the circuit breakers on the relay and also, the fuses are ok. Thanks for a reply. Still working on the situation.
Re: RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	Herb	4-12-09
Have you reset the circuit breakers on the relays?
Re: RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	Dan	4-16-09
I also have this problem with 12 volt not working. JUST INSTALLED three new house batteries with new cables. 110 volt works fine but 12 volt does not work. Also the generator will not start. I guess no power to it.You mentioned resetting the relays. Where are they located? Thank you very much. Any help would be appreciated. Dan
Re: RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	chuck	4-26-09
Don't know if this will help or not coming from the converter which I assume is under the bed the wires in my 35 pace arrow run a 8 gauge white ground wire a 8 gauge red wire to power the converter box to the batterys the fuses in the box run to the closet across from the frig over to the stove hood. As u may want to check the wires that are on the side of the generator by the resets and see if one is not making a connection if it equiped like my 6.5 Onan generator. As will know tommorrow exactly where the gen wires come from to the engine compartment. As mine a GMC but the solenodes are ford as well as the front heater control. So I have rewired the whole unit from front to back, as appears that the 15 fuses under the drivers side hatch which would of powered the unit if you did not have a Generator have a problem of back feeding. So am seperating the Engine Alternator from the generator and 110/220 voltage. As the red wire is the hot to the battery from the converter and white hooks to the ground junction at firewall. As the dynamic converter in my unit is made more to charge deep cell marine batterys and not auto batterys. And the alternator charges much higher then the ac converter with the flashing light in the converter box. As the schematic I got from the factory on mine from 72-88 shows a 4 kw or 5 kw and it was switched to a 6.5 kw and the converter has a 20 amp for front ac and a 30 amp for power plug in from camping sites power. So I placed a square d box into the unit to seperate the gen from pole power. As when I finish will have a 220/ inlet that I will use 110/110 off for ac units or outlet power from the gen as it is a 30/30amp and the converter a 20/30amp like some of the smaller gens. As the wires to the gen one positive one neg from the front. Been thinking of just setting in a seperate battery for the gen, as it has a battery charger in it like a lawn mower and maybe part of the problem of over feeding or cross circuiting. As like a riding lawn mower charges it's battery the most generators have this same ability. So makes me wonder who come up with the idea to run the wires to the front as the converter charges the batterys and generator with the ability to charge 6 amps is what I think mine is maybe a drain on the system. As when pluged in I can use the converter to run the lights and not use the motor battery, and if in the desert I can charge the converter batterys when I run the generator and if they get low I can switch to engine batterys, using either the engine Alternator to charge the front batterys and the generator to charge the deep cell marine batterys, and as the generator runs with the shut of switch I placed in the dog house by the drivers set use the genrators charger to trickle charge the engine batterys. As making a holder to store more batterys so one can dc to 110 ac convert 1000 amps by solar from the radio 1000 watt amp. As will replace the stero wire with regular speaker wire and a 110 volt stereo as the unit I have was a bus frame with wire big enoff to run the school bus flashing upper lights used in the front and rear speaker system which needs a amplifier to let the auto radio send sound down such a big wire. As it seems the steps is where the over charge goes or the ref. unit. As I have had front under dash fuse box out all ignition wires convertor table and benches toilet floor front lights generator wires and all out and instead of wire loom set them in square plastic pipe. As this way I can replace any wire that gets a short with eas. Am going to install a sewer pump so one can pump or gravity the sewage. Am putting industrial shut down gauges to generator and engine that will shut down either with a oil pressure. tempature, or vacum loss with a reset murphy switch fused to run ignition and generator as well looking at setting in burglar alarms used to start generator automatically when battery level is low. As once I have completed this one will more then likely update to a newer one that has a electrical problem as they don't bring much when the electrical has problems. As I would think anyone could do this as I am paralized from the waste down and managed to wire the unit. As u just have to think Motor then home and then converter. As converter is a ac system the alternater a 12 volt system and the house a 110 system. As the ac 110 converts to dc 12 volt 10 amps is what my dynamic converter is the alternator could range from 40 to 110 amps and and a dc system the 110 is a generator system as autos have not used generators sense around 64. As my converter 20amp and 30amp breakers on the main and aux AC, and my generator a 30/30 amp so I installed a square d 100 amp breaker box to make sure no over load to the converter accure. Installed a hobbs ajustable amp dial so I can make sure that 0-60 amps is all I charge the batterys with. As well placing shut offs on all three fuse junctions under the hood, that were originally wired for no generator in the system. As I am glad that who ever wired mine did not wire my house as got ford solenodes in a chevy chassisy and even a ford heater ac control in the dash, and any chevy starter has a ignition as well as switch connection in the year mine was made. And as well I have placed fusable links where they would of been in the chevy system. As hope this helps and well have a schematic but it states may not be used for repairs as got it from the factor to how it left Fl. but the gen and all added latter like many of the units were. As can maybe send u a copy of the set up if knew how yours was set up in lights and 110 for the house and convertor and generator. As the previouse owner had problems with the generators electric fuel pump does your gen turn over? As may have lost connection or the generators fuel pump is out?
Safety Neutral Switch for 03 Accure Mdx	Patrick Orji	7-20-09
DO CARRY sAFETY NEUTRAL SWITCH FOR ACCURE MDX 03. iF NOT DO YOU KNOW WHERE I can call for it.
AC/DC Overload	Danny Davis	6-10-09
I am getting a red light fault code and charging light keeps blinking. Meter reads "AC Overload" or "DC Overload" whether I have the generator on or shore power or 12 volt. Have replaced all four house batteries--brand new--but still getting code. I have a 2007 Monaco Knight. Please help!
Re: RV Electrical Issues (Converter?)	Evelyn Collier	9-3-09
We have a beeping in our trailer. We have discovered that we can not get the slide-out to work, so we replaced the battery. This did not solve the problem. It was suggested that it could be the converter but do not know where this is located. Can you help?

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