Fuel tank switching

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Fuel tank switching

Home > Discussion Forum > Mechanic's Corner - Electrical

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All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
Fuel tank switching	Jerry	10-6-08
I have a 1979 Dodge Concord made by Champions. When I bought the rig, on the dash it had a broken toggle switch where it says main/aux tank. I followed the fuel lines from both tanks & they go into 2 small cannisters & then into a selenoid looking thing that has 1 wire attached to it. From there, 1 fuel line goes to the mechanical fuel pump. I guess the "selenoid" is what switches tanks but I don't know how to get it to work. In the Champions service manual, it shows 4 wires going to the toggle, I have only 3. One of these wires has current going through it when I turn the key on, the other 2 don't. I tried connecting a toggle but the 1 wire got real hot.
Re: fuel tank switching	John Newman	10-8-08
Maybe I can be of help? The switch should be a double pole/single throw switch which provides two functions. The switch provides power to the fuel selector solenoid or turns it off. When there is power to the solenoid, it usually selected the aux tank to the fuel line to the engine, when there is no power to the solenoid, the main tank is selected to the engine. The switch also switches the fuel tank qty sensors to the fuel gage according to which tank is selected. A double pole switch is sort of like two switches side by side and operated by one handle. One side of the switch operates the solenoid, 12volts is connected to the center terminal and the solenoid wire to the other terminal on the same side which has 12volts with the switch in the aux position. The other terminal on that side is not connected. The center terminal on the second side of the switch is connected to the fuel gage and the other two terminals are connected to the wires from the aux and main tank respective to switch position. Hope this makes some sense. Good luck with your project, John
Re: fuel tank switching	Jerry	10-9-08
Thanks John. I see what your saying but I have only 3 wires that were connected to the old broken switch. I assume the 2 non-current wires are going to the 2 tank senders. Problem is, I can't trace the wires from the tanks because they are bundled with a bunch of other wires.