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My 1995 Class C motorhome is on a Ford E-350 chassis. The brakes have the anti-lock feature.
I had not driven the vehicle since Oct. of 05. I had started and ran the engine several times; however, while pre-flighting for a recent trip discovered that brake pedal was soft and with steady pressure would go to the stop with the engine running. Stop the engine and exhaust the vacuum from the system, the pedal was firm??? I went through my manual and troubleshot the system, decided it must be master cyl (no leakage, reservoir full to top and no evidence of leakage). Replaced master cyl and bled all brakes, still have the problem; however, brakes work great and stop the vehicle OK (pedal feel is better, but not awe inspiring).
My manual says bleed the brakes, if that doesn't work, the anti-lock must be bled with a "Scanner". Does anyone know about this bleeding process?
As I said, brakes work OK, I just don't think the pedal should be so soft.
I have a 92 E350 Ford chassis Class C with the same problem John Newman describes. Just had the master cylinder replaced, and bled with a power bleeder that pushes all fluid out from the M. cylinder. The said no air was in the system. Took it right back in, as the pedal still went to the floor, and they did it again. The pedal still goes all the way down, and with the engine off it goes almost to the floor. But it works fine in actual driving (over 100,000 miles), and in panic stops, and it has never had a "spongy" feel in use, but I can't understand why this occurs. Hope someone has an answer that tests out.
Thanks for the response. I bled everything out once already; however, a friend who operates a custom automobile shop has a power bleeder. He suggested that I hook the machine to each wheel bleeder and suck (it is air powered and works by sucking fluid through the bleeder) all the fluid from the system...then, attach the machine's supply tank to the master cylinder reservoir and bleed everything again. This should replace all the fluid and eliminate all the air.
I plan to do this next week, I do think that may do the trick. If it doesn't, I guess I'll be looking for someone with a scaner bleeder?
Thanks again,
John
Steve,
I went to my friend's business today to borrow the bleeder; however, he was not there? I still plan on re-bleeding using his equipment and method this week and will post the results thereof...wish me luck!
John
Steve,
Water pump on my daily driver Merc. Villager minivan gave up the bearing and I have just finished replacing the pump. That is no simple job, I'm 70 and the temps here (in NE FL) are around 90 and I'm probably not as fast as I once was. Therefore, I will not be doing the brakes on the RV till next week. Will keep you posted.
John
Today, I set up to check the front brakes and install new pads. Right side went well, no evident problems...disk in good shape and runout less than.005. Installed pads with no problem.
Left side, removed wheel and was looking an a radial crack in the disk about 1/16" wide...turned disk and found crack no. 2. Sooo, things are at a standstill again until I get a replacement disk/hub.
Just wanted you guys who posted concerning my spongy brake problem know that I have yet to solve that problem. Haven't worked on it much in the last month, haven't needed the RV and sickness and death in wife's family took priority; however, I did jack up the back and check the brake adjustments, they are OK.
Was advised to check the valve where the hose enters the booster...I did, it is OK. Was also advised that a hole in the booster diaghpram could cause the problem; however, I do not know how to check for a hole unless check that the booster will maintain vacuum with engine stopped...it does that.
Next, I plan to check front brakes as I think the pads could stand changing. If all that checks out, one more system bleed and if that doesn't fix the problem, will take it to someone who has the scanner to work the valves in the ABS unit. I understand that air in the ABS unit itself can cause the problem...wish me luck...I need it.
John Newman
First, I must say that I misunderstood my friend as to pulling all the fluid from the system...he was saying that I should draw the old from the master cyl with a turkey baster and start with the reservoir full of new fluid as well as attaching a bottle to the gadget which keeps the mstr cyl full while bleeding.
Picked up the brake super bleeder yesterday PM. The unit is actually a "Mighty-Vac" which has a large container with a large mouth lid. Built on the lid is an air driven vacuum unit with a lever to turn it on and off. There is a float valve in the jar to prevent overflowing the unit and blowing fluid out the filter.
I have a hand-pump mighty-vac unit which I have used before on my previous motor home. This unit works the same way and it has a system to attach a bottle of brake fluid to keep the master cyl full.
Rebled all four brakes and not much difference in pedal feel! Therefore, I feel the unit works well but did virtually nothing for my current brake situation.
Sorry I havent found the magic formula yet.
Plan on checking rear brake adjustment and installing new front pads next...if I find an answer, will keep everyone posted.
John Newman
I have much the same problem in a '91 F350 Diesel flatbed dually. Changed all springs, shoes, wheel cylinders on the rear. Drums where good. Installed a new booster (old one was bad) a new master cylinder and replaced the ABS block (old one had been bypassed). Power bled everything (including the proper procedure for the ABS) and still can push the pedal to the floor while running. It does hold even when the pedal is on the floor though. Still doesn't feel proper to me. I called Ford and was told this was normal for the earlier diesels, something about pressure build up and a bypass to prevent to much pressure build-up?? I still don't like it and it seems screwy to me! I asked for information based on this statement, Service Bulletins, Service Manual info that says this is normal, etc. We'll see if I ever hear back from anyone. John, any new developments? thanks!