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1983 P-30 Brakes Bill 2-27-03  
I had a leaking master cylinder that I had to replace. Installed a new one and bleed the brakes (four wheel disc). Everything felt fine the pedal felt firm. Took it out for the test ride and got about 1/2 mile before the brakes gradually started to engage, then they fully locked. Went to the calipers and opened the bleeders which were pressurize to release them. This has happened again as I returned home. Any ideas? Booster system is working off the power steering pump. Any help would be appreciated.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes Joe 2-27-03  
You may have a faulty master cylinder. There are small check valves in the ports which may have been installed improperly. Start the motorhome and drive it a short distance in a safe place where you can work on it. Apply the brakes until you get the wheels to lock up. With the vehicle in park and the wheels blocked, carefully loosen the lines that go into the master cylinder one at a time and see if there is pressure on one or both of them. If you hear the brakes release, you have found the problem. Hold a rag or something so that the brake fluid can't spray out at you. If not,it could be the brackets that hold the front brake hoses to the upper control arm. Let us know what you find.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes pat hudgins 2-5-06  
My brother had a 1983 6.2 diesel motorhome that had always had pw growling until I replaced the pump several years ago after sitting for over a year. No growl! drove home 350 miles to have the crank break in the engine. After 10 months and a new engine and conversion to serpentine system growl was back. $550 and a change out pump with different shop and it still growls. Growl and overflow through remote reservoir now. I seem to think it use to have three lines, now it has two. Is it possible mechanics did not know what to do and got year models confused and changed? What lines should I have on a diesel motorhome with front disc brakes? And what pump? I prefer new pump, lines, etc. HELP!!!
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes TENN TERRY T 2-27-03  
You might want to check the rod that comes out of the booster most ive seen had adjustments on it you might have to adjust the rod shorter as if the rod is out too far it will cause the brakes to drag and will finaly lock up master cylinders vary as to what travel is needed
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes Andy 2-28-03  
I agree with Tenn Terry T that the
rod is too long.you can adjust the rod
to give it more clearence.
Another way to test the sys is to add
front end shims between the booster
and the master cyl,that way you will
know if it is too long.You don't have
to take the master cyl off just loosen
it and add shims.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes Scott 3-9-03  
I have have an older P30 that had the same problem on the front brakes only. The brake lines used in older GM trucks have a tendancy to collapse. When that happens, brake fluid cannot escape the calipers--that's why brake fluid shot out when you loosened the nipple. I found NAPA had the replacement brake line,changed both front lines and haven't had any more problems. It's worth a try.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes dick miller 8-18-04  
'82 pace arrow 2 miles and the front brakes won't release.. NEW master cyl. bled good. i'm psssssst......
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes bad advice Joe 3-1-03  
I think the first clue that something was wrong is that you took about a half mile before he had any brakes, then they locked up. Definately not too long of a rod. Maybe front end shims should be left in the front end. That suggestion doesn't sound safe to me. Good luck sir, and if you try repairing your brakes with front end shims, please drive with a sign attached to the front of your motorhome "UNSURE OF MY BRAKES, BEWARE". Just remember, the vehicle in front of you may have people in it that don't want to be rear ended. Or even a mother with a newborn baby.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes bad advice "JOE" Andy 3-2-03  
"WOW" I didn't know Joe was a auto
engineer,Too bad he doesn't under-stand what the word TEST means.If he
had 1/4 oz of brains,he would know that
it is the easiest and less costly way
of doing it.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes bad advice Bill 3-2-03  
Joe it wasn't that the brakes wouldn't work, it was that they worked too well. When applied and released they would not disengage the presure to the calipers. So i was pretty much doing a brake press will driving. When I got to the side of the road I opened the bleeder on the rear calipers to relieve the presure then everything worked fine for awhile but the problem came back on the return trip. Recently I've pumped the brakes and gone foward and reverse in the driveway to try to get them to lock again but so far so good. Maybe it was something stuck in the master cylinder checks. When the weather clears up I'm going to try another test drive around the block. Maybe it was just a fluke.
Re: 1983 P-30 Brakes bad advice ANDY Joe 3-2-03  
Don't attack me for being on the safe side. It is people like you that kill others with your retarded way of thinking. and furthermore, I didn't address you anyway, stupid.
Civility bill h 3-8-03  
Hey guys, be nice. Rudeness will discourage people from contributing to this forum.
Re: civility Bill 3-17-03  
Well gentlemen the problem is resolved and you won't believe the cause. I replaced the master cylinder thinking that I might have received a faulty one, but when installed had the same problem. Went to a few other forums and did alittle research. It seems this has happened to others with hydro boost. Cause of problem- brake light switch was lodged to far foward as to not let the pedal fully return. This didn't let the fluid back into the master. The fluid got hot causing the calipers to engage. Hope this helps out somebody else. Also no kids, pregnant women, or animals were hurt during the process. It's always the stupid things that get you!
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