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Military - ready to retire. Wife and I have been considering full time RVing - just discovered possibility of bus conversion (we're 46 y/o). I have a house where I have room to convert a bus, and the time to do it very soon. Just ordered book How to Select and Convert Your Bus Into a Motorhome on a Shoestring which I hope to be the start of an education. I don't know about transit vs intercity etc, nor models, engines, trannys etc. Started net search just yesterday. Am on fairly tight budget (3,000 per mo retirement pay, 60k yr right now - still supporting one child), reliable drivetrain first concern. I'm a fair home gas light vehicle mechanic will have to learn deisel. I like "more power" if reliable and I can afford it. Besides book on order where to start research? How about transit vs intercity vs models etc? Much to learn - appologies for multi questions.
More answers with a little MCI History
1. Why MCI 9 ?
In the 1950’s, Motor Coach Industries dba MCI was manufacturing the 35’ Model MCI 5 Over the Road passenger Coach. It was a good coach with a manual 4 speed transmissions. However, they needed something a little bigger as the Bus industry was growing now and this coach was having a rust problem. Then, in 1968, they introduced the improved 40’ MCI 7 using stainless steel and aluminum in the chassis with stainless steel skins to address this rust problem .
In the late 1960’s Greyhound Bus acquired MCI .
The model MCI 8 came next from 1973 to 1978. 4,475 units were built and it was squarer and more modern looking then the 7 with more stainless steel and aluminum in the sub chassis .
From 1979 to 1987 came the now famous MCI 9 and it’s still being manufactured (as the MCI 12). The most successful Passenger Bus ever made, with over 9,000 have been produced. This coach's sub frame and the rear section around the engine is 90% Stainless Steel and Aluminum . And in 1982, MCI made some more improvements in the steering, suspension and light structural work were made.
This Bus was designed by Greyhound for Greyhound, a company that wanted a high mileage low maintenance intercity long haul over the road coach..
This new MCI was the only coach that was ever designed to last 30 years and 3 million miles not 10 years and 1 million miles like all the other over the road passenger buses. One of the first things they did was to build the coach with the now famous 90% Stainless Steel and Aluminum sub chassis construction.
Also don’t forget the MCI 9 has a squarer roof then other previous MCI’s this is important with value, looks and when you need extra space inside. and most important of all ...The MCI , in its class has the highest resale value over any other coach in the industry.
Wellcome
I am a newer Busnut myself...
bought an older Honey RV years ago, and liked doing the RV stuff.
Bought a 1968 Eagle this past summer, started doing the conversion and now looking at a newer,better MCI-8.... mine had a v8-71 manual transmission... to up grade to an auto is like 9-12k, for the same money one can buy a much better Bus, with automatic trany
There are a few good and some Great RV/Bus sited out thereto visit...
Fairt take your time, and learn before you buy a bus... sign up for the Bus conversion magazine.. (www.busconversion.com )
check out the www.abc-bus.com for good used NJ buses for sale...(mci's from $8,000)
I am a disabled VN vet, doing my conversion... the bus group are the frendliest bunch I have ever met... some called me on the telephone and told me how to adjust or replace my manual transmission....
I will post other bb and wed adderss to your e-mail address
I can tell you a little bit.
But what kind of conversion you building, are you going to live on land power or will you be doing booning?
If you will live on land power, you will get by with a nominal battery system and wire the coach all electric.
If you will boondock, camp with no outside power supply you then need to build in some conservancy, maybe propane for stove/oven, some propane furnaces that use no power, propane stove, use nominal power for controls, efficient lighting, etc. Will you stay in moderate warm climates or venture into cold areas?
Should you be a SnowBird and drive down to avoid the cold weather, you may not need to pre-heat your engine, though I would have some way to heat it up, just in case. Some use Wabasto for hot water heating and plumb into the bus engine for preheating.
More Questions To Come:
Next - Transit or Parlor coach
Transits do not have a high floor, few steps to climb, Parlor have a high floor line, must climb steps.
A transit has limited under floor storage, some coaches you need to build the storage floors, parlors have a large amount of storage under floor.
Engines are standard between the two I think, transmissions are also. parlor buses may have a more comfortable ride.
Transit buses have wheel wells in the living space, not too bad to build aorund, parlors have none. Both offer about the same amount of living space. Some parlor buses have short ceilings and owners raise the roof to gain more head room, most transits ceiling height is around 6'8" and generally not raised.
Parlor buses are a bit higher than transits, a concern where low bridges are concerned or in RV parks with lots of trees.
Someone else can help with the list as I can't think of anything else right now.
Both are good buses, both are a lot of work and a huge source of pride when completed. Good luck - cd
Cd - thanks for the info. Maybe you and other members can help educate me a bit more if I answer your questions.
My best guess (never full timed before) is 10 - 15% boonie, rest on shore power. Want option for both.
Plan to snow bird, should very rarely be in below freezing temps (only if "caught out").
Transit or parlor - leaning parlor - but RTS looks possible if with hi-way gears or conversion for same (is that do-able - I'd like reliable 75MPH) Can under coach storage be added on a RTS?. RTS looks good if I understand correctly parts readily avail, it's a bargain price in many cases, it's 40' by 102", and no tag axle?
My newbie uneducated bias I don't want a schoolie, don't want a tag axle, do want a 8V71 or above power, prefer allison trannie, but wife and I both capable to double clutch, require good brakes, safe suspension, steering and handling. Lower price better than higher. On transits so far I like look of GM 4106, 4905, MCI 5 series, and hear that MCI 8 and above are good rigs (but have the tandem axle I'd like to avoid). I'm 50/50 on a pure bus, versus one already converted once but dated (to keep price down vs newer converison). I'm a decent back yard light mechanic, and 50% house hold handyman level. I'd have TONS to learn to do a conversion.
You mentioned some models as transits. Not sure if that was a typo or confusion. The GM 4905 and MCIs are highway coaches, not transits. The RTS is a transit. Storage can be built on transits, but it is a lot of work. I think it comes down to a trade-off i.e. raising the roof or building undercarriage storage. Both are big jobs. Some people do neither, which is OK. A transit can be converted and all equipment located inside the bus. Of course this approaches loses valuable space. A highway coach can be left with stock roof. But tall people might have to be carefull of AC controls overhead or other items.
Not that I want to hijack BB traffic, but you might try posing some specifc questions here:
The level of involvement is much higher and conversation gets quite lively. I only check in on this board once every couple weeks, and the others, I am on daily.
Glad to see Cory here, though. Hi Cory!
Scott
On transits so far I like look of GM 4106, 4905, MCI 5 series, and hear that MCI 8 and above are good rigs (but have the tandem axle I'd like to avoid). I'm 50/50 on a pure bus, versus one already converted once but dated (to keep price down vs newer converison). I'm a decent back yard light mechanic, and 50% house hold handyman level. I'd have TONS to learn to do a conversion.
One thing you might think about with a tandem, is weigh it, then think about losing the tandem. The extra axle was for stability, not for weight, if the tandem is removed, you lose 1500lbs, and gain the space. But you may have to put an extra leaf in the remaining rear. The space gained is enough for another storage space. I'll leave it up to you to figure out what you want to do with it.