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Ford B700 School bus questions Phil 4-2-03  
Hello,
I am thinking of buying a 1991 Ford B700 to convert to a motor home/car hauler.

I want to cut the rear half of the cab off and make a flat deck to haul my competition off-road Jeep, and make the front half into a motor home.

Questions:
Anyone ever cut the back off a bus to deck it?
I have heard the Lucas rear drums on these are failure prone? Anyone ever done a disc brake swap in the rear? Or what about adding residual valves to the lines, will that help by keeping pressure in the seals?

Thanks,
Phil
Re: Ford B700 School bus questions Randol 6-12-06  
Hey my bus wont start, its not the starter relay, I am not getting power to the relay.

Any help please
Re: Ford B700 School bus questions MutherTrucker 4-3-03  
Why chop up a perfectly good school bus? With a jeep riding on the back you wont have nearly enough room for a motorhome interior.

It would be better if you just bought a used big rig with a condo sleeper and just take the 5th wheel off and replace it with a steel fabricated flat bed with drive up ramp for your jeep. You could even finance the big rig if you cant lay out the 15k cash it will run you. The same cant be said
for the school bus, no one will finance you chopping up their bus.

As for "swaping disk brakes" on a heavy truck, no one does that for a good reason. Maybe a "trick" setup on a hot rod, but on a heavy truck,
drum brakes can take alot of heat build up, while disk brakes explode.
Re: Ford B700 School bus questions Bill 1-29-04  
Phil -- I had something similar in mind after I saw a similar bus conversion in our company's classifieds.
But my thoughts are more like:
-- Convert the rear cap so that it hinges at the bumper and flips down.
-- Have pull-out ramps to get the vehicle to the ground.
-- If the bus had air springs, lower rear, raise front.
-- Close cap.
You now have a an enclosed 'trailer' for your toy and enough fwd room for sleeping, etc.
I'm not sure the bus conversion people understand the car people. I want a self powered car trailer, not a 'people' conversion. Here's the thought process...
I'd like a fully enclosed trailer for my toy. A used enclosed trailer is around $5k.
Now I have to haul the trailer, so I need a pickup. Easily another $5k. Plus the room they both take up. Why not just get a reasonably priced bus and make it both?
I only need a fridge and a place to sleep, plus a place for my car.
The basement can hold tools.

Get hold of me if you find any links on bus-to-car-hauler conversions.
Re: Ford B700 School bus questions Steve B 4-20-04  
I just converted a 1980 Wayne School Bus on a Ford Chassis to a car hauler to haul my Formula Vee race car. I cut out all of the rear sheet metal including door, windows turn signals etc. I then installed a tube frame to hold doors. The door hardware was the same as used on enclosed trailers or semis. I have a bed frame in front of where the car sits that holds most of my gear and spares during travel. I just made my first trip in the bus and it was a great success. This conversion is a lot of work.
Re: Ford B700 School bus questions Darren Hurren 11-10-13  
I have a 1993 B700 Ford bus with 5.9 cummins engine and automatic tranny. It has a problem holding charge in the batteries. When I purchased the bus the former owner had rigged up a battery charger in the battery box to keep batteries charged continuously when bus is plugged in. When it is plugged in the battery charger AND a circulating heater are both activated. It would always fire right up as long as she is plugged in.
Today I started it after been plugged in for a couple hours, (temperature outside today was about -3 degrees celcious with a pretty good wind. So it was darn cool. Anyway she fired up. I ran it around the yard for a bit to warm up then shut it down, approx. 15 mins of run time. I went to start it again 45 mins later and nothing happened. Dead as a Macral! I checked battery voltage and cleaned connections, (battery voltage was 12.6 volts) lots of juice! I put a booster cable from neg. side of batteries to ground terminal on starter and then the interior dinger sounded. I tried jumping starter directly from battery, nothing! No life at ignition switch and could get no power at starter positive terminal!
I decided to pull out positive cable off starter and battery to check resistance. Tested 0 ohms. Assume this cable is good. Put both batteries on trickle charger to top up voltage and it only took a few minutes to top up voltage to full charge.
After I pulled batteries and positive cable out, I tried boosting directly to starter from my pick-up with booster cables. Positive cable to Positive terminal on starter, negative cable to ground terminal on starter. Nothing! Wouldn't even click. Where do I go next? Remove starter to further investigate it or is there a electrical connection somewhere that could be giving me all the grief? If so any suggestions where to start? Thanks, Darren.
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