Bus specifications

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Bus specifications

Home > Discussion Forum > Bus Conversions - School

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All Messages in Thread	Author	Date
Bus specifications	Spacehog	3-9-02
Hello, I am looking at two different buses, a 65-passenger and a 71-passenger, both bluebirds. What are the interior dimensions on these buses? (to immidately behind the drivers seat) What is the total height, as I was thinking about raising the roof, and from what I've heard I cannot go above 13'6". Thanks!
Re: Bus specifications	Mark O.	3-10-02
I don't have specifics but each seat usually takes up about 32". A 71-pax is a 12-row and a 65-pax is an 11-row. Generally speaking, a 65-pax is 35' overall and a 71-pax is 38' overall. As for raising a roof on a school bus, don't do it. There is so much steel in it that to raise the roof is not practical. Each window post is also part of the roof bow. If you don't extend the window posts you are going to compromise the vehicle's strucural strength and rigidity. You will end up going down the road with the body shaking and moving at a different speed from the roof. If you want a higher ceiling, find a school bus with the optional 78" ceiling to start with or look at purchasing a motorcoach. Good luck and happy trails. Mark O.
Re: Bus specifications	Nic	3-20-02
Can't tell much about the spec's but will say that for the extra cuople of feet between the small and large bus, they drive the same..same gas mpg and handling is no different. go the larger it will be worth the extra living space. As fo0r raising the roof..Mark O is correct in that by cutting it off completely you start to screw with the structural integrity.The metal between the windows is aircraft quality steel..very stromg and hard to cut, and is part of an intergral roll bar system that makes a bus the safest vehicle on the road. If you cut to much out it allows the body to twist and vibrate..and you are going to find enough of that in a bus anyway..in fact it is the biggest conversion problemm..doing anti vibration tricks when you mount solid items like plumbing and electrical wires..I have seen 110v copper house wire wear stretch and thin out in a 1000 miles. I have seen successfully done is raising a section..say 3-4 cells (area between the windows) and build up kind of like the raised area towards the rear of a Greydog Bus. Also laugh as you want, but junk yards can supply you with some cool top sections like top of a VW.. Also, a regular openable house skylight, like a Pella type..with screens..they fit in between..24" opening can be sealed off with cualking and a bit of sheet metal and look good. solid ones can be used too..cheaper..50$. I also saw a cool unit that had dropped the floor behind the rear wheels and raised the roof to a split level, with a bed loft upstairs and a set of caboose windows and roof dressing..old rairoad salvage..and a back porch. But this was not an upwardly mobile situation..although I did see it move a few miles one time. I would be careful to balance your intended usage in that if you plan on traveling...road warrior vs parking and having a semi-mobile camp, then evaluate the conditions.\ The road requies speed..low weight/weights/, miles per gallon, acceleration, ability to climb hills and be safe..starting and stopping, wind resistance..Camping requires hot tubs , a garden, lounging room and creature comforts. The two can be intertwined but neither is efficient for the other. have a good time busses are a lot of fun Nicolas