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Electrical Dave Jensen 9-16-05  
First let me say that I've been lurking here since I got bitten by the "Bus Bug" about a year ago and recently purchased an MCI 7 in great mechanical shape. Holding and water tanks are in and now I'm working on the Electrical plan. Could you experienced folks look it over and suggest changes?

1 Bus Alternator connected to a 250A/3 bank Pathfinder
1 SW 2524 24v Inverter fed by either :

6.5 kw generator
50 amp Shore power
2 house banks of 4 ea T-105 Batteries connected to produce 24v. w/disconnect
2 8d starting batteries.

110 from Inverter goes to a distribution panel with 5- 15 amp circuits to:

Lights, plugs, refer, etc.

5- 30amp circuits to:

Front Air Conditioner
Rear Air conditioner
Hot Water Heater

100a Equalizer from battery bank for any 12v needs.

Is this a workable plan? I want to be able to camp away from a power pole as easily as possible as well as run my front air conditioner while cruising down the highway using the Path maker and engine Alternator to charge the house and start batteries. Any suggestions you can give me to improve would be gratefully accepted
Re: Electrical george 9-20-05  
Everything sounds good except the water heater, and hopefully it is a propane/electric version? If not, you will have dead house batteries quickly trying to heat water with an inverter. A couple of formulas, 3412 BTU/kilowatt hour, and 94,600 BTU/gallon of propane. Take the amp hours of ONE of your 6V batteries, multiply that by 24, and that by about 90% (the efficiency of your inverter) then by 3412, which will give you the theoretical BTU available out of your batteries. The actual amount will be lower, as the inverter will shut off before the batteries are completely discharged... Electric resistance heat is fine if you're plugged in a campground, otherwise, use propane or diesel. Dry camping with an electric fridge isn't very long term either!
Hope this helps,
Re: Electrical george 9-21-05  
One more thing, generator is too small. You need at least 10 KW. 6.5 KW on propane won't run two roof a/c at higher elevations, and if anything turns on lower down with two a/c running, the gen will bog and things will break.
Re: Electrical Bill 11-17-05  
Try thinking opf your AC loads this way. 1) what do you want available any time. Power to micro, coffee pot, TV,VCR/DVD, computer ??? Power that stuff from the inverter. 2) What needs to be powered from the generator/shorepower? A/C's, electric supply to water heater, engine block heater???
You end up with two supply breaker panels. First is supplied from gwenerator/shorepower and contains breakers for A/C's, elctric supply to hot water heater, elctric supply to refrigerator, plus whatever heavy loads you need and finally a breaker to supply the inverter/charger. The second panel is supplied from the inverter/charger either in a pass through mode or from suuplied inverter power. This panel contains the loads you want available at all times.
You need two battery banks that can be isolated from each other. One for starting and the other for house. I leave the crossconnect in auto. With AC present, meaning generator or shorepower, the battery banks are crossconnected via a relay. And also cross connected when the parking brake pressure increases due to brake release. Can be manualy cross connected when needed.
I have 450 amp hours(AH) available at 24VDC. A weekend of dry camping will use 100-150 AH. That lights,sat TV, vent fans, hot water from Webasto, coffee twice a day and use of mirco as needed. A little more if I'm in a good location and propagation for Ham Radio.
You need an equalizer for 12V in the house circuits. I put in an equalizer for both banks. Installed soares are nice plus gives me 12V power from the coach battery when driving for radios, CB, backup camera and Jake brake.

Hope that helps.
Re: Electrical Jerry Williams 1-25-06  
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