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I HAVE A 92 WINNEBAGO CLASS A 24' THAT WHILE GOING DOWN HIWAY HEAD LIGHTS GO DIM IN 3 MINUTES ALL MARKER LIGHTS STAY ON DASH LIGHTS STAY ON HORN WON'T WORK BUT CHARGE GAUGE SAY 12-13 VOLTS LIGHTS DON'T GET BRIGHTER WHILE ENGINE REVING ALL GROUNDS LOOK GOOD HORN BAFFLES ME AS WELL AS LIGHTS BATTERY WHILE OFF IS 12.5 VOLTS ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE WIRING ON THE P30 CHASSIS 454 F.I. MOTOR ?
I HAVE A 92 WINNEBAGO CLASS A 24' THAT WHILE GOING DOWN HIWAY HEAD LIGHTS GO DIM IN 3 MINUTES ALL MARKER LIGHTS STAY ON DASH LIGHTS STAY ON HORN WON'T WORK BUT CHARGE GAUGE SAY 12-13 VOLTS LIGHTS DON'T GET BRIGHTER WHILE ENGINE REVING ALL GROUNDS LOOK GOOD HORN BAFFLES ME AS WELL AS LIGHTS BATTERY WHILE OFF IS 12.5 VOLTS ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE WIRING ON THE P30 CHASSIS 454 F.I. MOTOR ?
Let's take the lights first. There isn't a fuse for the headlights for obvious reasons, however, there is a self-resetting circuit breaker in the switch itself. It's nothing more than a bimetal strip that will warp if it's carrying too much current, and open a set of contacts, cutting current to the lights. A faulty ground, (resistance) is one way of requring a circuit to carry more current. I'd start by running another ground wire for the headlights directly to the frame, or even to the chassis battery's ground post.