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Re: ford class-c wobble by jd
Post New Message You can also add Air-Lift bags inside the front springs. I haven't done that yet myself, but bear in mind the ones CW sells on the store shelf for Ford are NOT the ones our chassis calls for. They're an inch longer for E350SDs and E450s.
Anyhow, on top of the steering gearbox there's an adjustingscrew locked down by a nut. First, center the wheels and unlock the column. See if there's slack in the wheel. May need somebody to watch the tires while somebody else wiggles the steering wheel. We had 2+ inches of slack where the steering wheel would move before the steering started to move the wheels. If you have that much slack. loosen the locknut while holding the screw where you found it. "Tighten" (go clockwise) no more than 1/8 turn and lock the nut there. Test drive. BE SURE there is no binding when you steer back out of right and left turns. You're trying to bring a couple gear sectors into tighter mesh, which works because there's a taper involved. But you're adjusting the play at center, where wear is the most. YOU MUST be sure you don't tighten up too much or the steering will go balky on you and at worst case can keep you from coming out of a turn. Keep going, but not more than 1/8 at a time. If in doubt, stop!
Jack one wheel just off the ground right at the wheel end of the IBeam axle. Try to "steer" that wheel and have somebody watch to be sure you aren't moving the wheel off the ground without moving the other side the same amount. Suggest you try both sides. Maybe there's still something loose or worn. There isn't much adjustable on that Twin IBeam. For caster and camber, the axle has to be bent and not too many shops can do it. The toe-in should be zero. When I checked mine at home it was 1/4" OUT. Zero toe is like the Indians walked, feet straight ahead. Toe-in is "pigeon toed" and toe-out is a "duck waddle". Toe-out will let your coach dart left and right on the road. I centred the steering and positioned my wheels so there was a clear path through the lugnuts to put straight edges onto the wheel faces parallel to the ground. Measured distance between straight edges just in front and just behind the tires. Actual distances don't matter, but the difference between front and rear measure does. If front greater than rear, toe is out. If front less than rear, toe is in. If equal, toe is zero. I tweaked mine about three times and quit when I was a little than 1/8" in. If you don't like what you see, adjusting is done with a turnbuckle sleeve on the driver side. There are locking bolts in each end of the sleeve. Loosen just enough to be able to twist the sleeve with Channellock pliers. Again, no more than 1/8 turn. I checked mine by rolling to a stop on a level parking lot, steering centered, and stopping with the parking brake. This is unscientific as all get out, but it worked for me. Hope this helps. If you're not 200% confident in doing this, please don't. Anything overadjusted or left loose invites accident. God Bless, jd
All Messages in ThreadAuthorDate
Post New MessageFord class-c wobble wally2117 8-4-02  
  Reply to MessageRe: ford class-c wobble jd 8-28-02  
    Reply to MessageRe: ford class-c wobble wally2117 8-29-02  
    Reply to MessageRe: ford class-c wobble jd 9-5-02  
      Reply to MessageRe: ford class-c wobble JOE ACERBO 8-29-02  
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