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|Ford class-c wobble||wally2117||8-4-02|
|I wanna know if some of you experienced this feeling and how it could be possible to correct the wobble problem. I hearded that it's a common problem with the twin I beam ford suspension type. The vehicule is too sensible to the truck pass and cross winds. It makes me constantly correcting the steering wheel. All the direction parts were checked by a mechanic and nothing had exessive wear. The wheels were aligned at the same time. Brand new shock absorber too.|
|Re: ford class-c wobble||jd||8-28-02|
|Ours isn't as steady as I'd like it to be, but we did three things that really helped: 1. Adjusted slack out of steering box. 2. Carefully set toe-in to just a little on the positive (toed-in) side of zero. 3. Replaced front anti-sway bar end link kits.BTW, our rear springs were also badly sagged. I took them apart and added a "repair leaf". This was the first thing I did because of a lot of sway in the rear. What year is it? Ours is 1983 E350. In those years there were no Super Duties or E450s. Sorry to take so long, haven't been on this forum in months. God Bless, jd|
|Re: ford class-c wobble||wally2117||8-29-02|
|As I can see, it's not a very active forum here!|
BTW, thanks for the reply.
It's a 86 E-350. I've also fix the rear end spring. Add 1 leaf spring to have it more rigid.
I've changed king pins kit and have it realigned.
Also changed front shocks.
How do you adjust the steering box slack?
Anti-sway bar bushings is also a good idea.
|Re: ford class-c wobble||jd||9-5-02|
|You can also add Air-Lift bags inside the front springs. I haven't done that yet myself, but bear in mind the ones CW sells on the store shelf for Ford are NOT the ones our chassis calls for. They're an inch longer for E350SDs and E450s. |
Anyhow, on top of the steering gearbox there's an adjustingscrew locked down by a nut. First, center the wheels and unlock the column. See if there's slack in the wheel. May need somebody to watch the tires while somebody else wiggles the steering wheel. We had 2+ inches of slack where the steering wheel would move before the steering started to move the wheels. If you have that much slack. loosen the locknut while holding the screw where you found it. "Tighten" (go clockwise) no more than 1/8 turn and lock the nut there. Test drive. BE SURE there is no binding when you steer back out of right and left turns. You're trying to bring a couple gear sectors into tighter mesh, which works because there's a taper involved. But you're adjusting the play at center, where wear is the most. YOU MUST be sure you don't tighten up too much or the steering will go balky on you and at worst case can keep you from coming out of a turn. Keep going, but not more than 1/8 at a time. If in doubt, stop!
Jack one wheel just off the ground right at the wheel end of the IBeam axle. Try to "steer" that wheel and have somebody watch to be sure you aren't moving the wheel off the ground without moving the other side the same amount. Suggest you try both sides. Maybe there's still something loose or worn. There isn't much adjustable on that Twin IBeam. For caster and camber, the axle has to be bent and not too many shops can do it. The toe-in should be zero. When I checked mine at home it was 1/4" OUT. Zero toe is like the Indians walked, feet straight ahead. Toe-in is "pigeon toed" and toe-out is a "duck waddle". Toe-out will let your coach dart left and right on the road. I centred the steering and positioned my wheels so there was a clear path through the lugnuts to put straight edges onto the wheel faces parallel to the ground. Measured distance between straight edges just in front and just behind the tires. Actual distances don't matter, but the difference between front and rear measure does. If front greater than rear, toe is out. If front less than rear, toe is in. If equal, toe is zero. I tweaked mine about three times and quit when I was a little than 1/8" in. If you don't like what you see, adjusting is done with a turnbuckle sleeve on the driver side. There are locking bolts in each end of the sleeve. Loosen just enough to be able to twist the sleeve with Channellock pliers. Again, no more than 1/8 turn. I checked mine by rolling to a stop on a level parking lot, steering centered, and stopping with the parking brake. This is unscientific as all get out, but it worked for me. Hope this helps. If you're not 200% confident in doing this, please don't. Anything overadjusted or left loose invites accident. God Bless, jd
|Re: ford class-c wobble||JOE ACERBO||8-29-02|
|WALLY, BILSTIEN SHOCKS AS A REPLACEMENT NOT STANDARD APPLICATION, UPGRADE TO HEAVY DUTY SWAY BARS(FRONT AND REAR)AND IF YOU ARE STILL NOT COMFORTABLE INSTALL AIRLIFT SUSPENSION AIR BAGS IN THE REAR.|