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I had a '60's Forrester travel trailer, equipped just as you described. With the water system, I did as Bubba suggested, that is discard the air presure system and install a demand pump, such as a Shurflo. There was nothing like having the compressor under the bed start cycling in the middle of the night as a minute air leak would trigger the pressure switch. While the old propane light fixture was a neat fixture ( it produced heat as well as light), you didn't dare operate it without the ceiling vent being cracked open for fear of carbon monoxide poisoning. You say your line from the 100% safety valve to the pilot light is plugged?, that's odd, I'd more suspect you have a failed thermocouple ( a device that produces an electrical current when heated), the current produced is fed to an electromagnet in the control that holds the valve feeding the pilot open, no current, no gas to pilot. When you push the button on the control to light the pilot, you are manually opening that small pilot light valve. The threaded part of the thermocouple that screws into the control valve is pretty much universal as to thread, etc, Do this, unscrew the thermocouple and look down into the hole you took it from, you should see a shiny surface, just like fresh solder, if is dull and gray, carefully scrape it a bit until it is shiny, ditto for the end of the thermocouple, remember that it is an electrical connection, and the mantra for electrical connections is "Shiny and Tight". Your travel trailer has two electrical systems, a 12 volt, and a 115 volt. You can use any watt bulb in the 12 volt system, depending on how much light you want, and how long you want the battery to last. Mine was a Park model, which meant it didn't have holding tanks, so I had to install some after I bought it so I could camp where I wished. |
RV and bus conversion info since 1996.
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